AHW308

Super Knocking!

2012-02-18T00:06:00.009+08:00

I've been observing "Super Knocking" is a common problem associated with EP6-DT* engines. At the beginning it is not easy to detect by normal "feel" [or with "buttDyno"] because most of the time the ECU would regulate the combustion parameters accordingly to make the engine run as usual after it had sensed "knocking". Not withstanding, once happened, there is a high probability for a series of unfortunate events to happen which lead to a catastrophe.

The remedy could cost a fortune!

Better get it done during the warranty period. The time bomb is ticking. Yours could be next.

It is essential for you to have OBD2 diagnostic tools ready all the time, at least as the "first aid" kit which lets you know what's happening in your car engine. The diagnostic tool normally comes as a stand alone device [OBD2 Scanner] or a set of ELM327 dongle and diagnostic software [for laptop] can be bought on-line cheaply nowadays. Some diagnostic softwares can even be downloaded for free!

The Causes of Engine Knock
Simple answer to engine knock is "Abnormal Combustion", but no one really knows exactly the reasons behind "super knocking". Based on what had happened to myPeugeot308 looks like the mechanics at an authorised SC is doing trial-and-error* method to solve it.

Episode 1 - Sept 3rd, 2011
Happened on my way back from Kelantan via Gerik. Just after Ipoh the car lost power. Set the car on autoCruise for 20km. Power back again. Very powerful!. A week later the car was sent to an authorised SC to rectify the problem . A HPFP was replaced [foc]

Episode 2 - Nov 6th, 2011
Drove to Kelantan via KLipis. Happened again at the beginning of the trip but restored after Gombak Toll Plaza. Got all the power needed for Karak Highway

Episode 3 - Nov 8th, 2011
Loss power while driving from Kelantan towards Kuantan. It happened just after passing Jertih. Drove the car all the way to Kuantan at reduced power. Top speed on newly opened ECE2 was less than 180kph. Normally I did above 200kph there. The next day continued driving along coastal roads to JB. In JB the car was diagnosed for "mis-communication" between gearbox and the ECU hence fuel regulation fault detected - rich mixture at low load and lean mixture at high load.

Read more on the 1500-km trip misadventure HERE.

Episode 4 -Dec 12, 2011
Infamous "Intermittent power loss" happened again. This time more often than before. Sent the car to an authorised SC again. The mechanic suggested for top overhaul to change ignition and valve timing mechanisms including timing chain... sounded very scary. Spare parts not available. Got to wait. Drove the car back home. No more power loss after resetting the ECU but a couple of time the engine jerky briefly. Total count for ECU resetting done to date is FIVE...

Episode 5 - Feb 14th 2012
Spare Parts arrived. Sent the car again to get the work done.

... to be continued and let the "whole world know" . Stay tuned.

*Note: I've even heard they even offer engine replacement. Not in Malaya of course. Read HERE- but there are cases here in Malaya where cylinder heads had got to be replaced as a result of the "super knocking".

OBD II "Tools" for EP6-DT* engines

2012-02-13T07:31:00.005+08:00

The #1 problems with car tuning/mapping is the limited support and lack of specific diagnostic tools available for every car. Probably "generic" tuners/mappers would not invest on each manufacturer-specific tools because those "equipment" are well beyond their budget to optimise/maximise profit making.

I think "FlasherTHP"/"LionHEART" by eTuners is the solution for us Peugeot THP owners who prefer DIY. This is actually a 2-in-1 "low-cost" software [Diagnostics and Flasher] specially developed to read and flash Peugeot and other cars powered by THP Engines [EP6-DT*]- that let us choose the right "firmware" we would use on our car. QED!

It would also able to be used in diagnosis and fault-finding, in case things would start going wrong rather than keep on changing the "firmware" by trial-and-error without solving the root of the problems.

Another screen shot...

click-on the image to enlarge

Now it is possible for everyone to DIY his THP engine reading and flashing. Have fun and good luck!

"Final Drive"

2012-02-09T15:11:00.000+08:00

Being one of the first Peugeot 308 THP140 's driven on Malayan soil almost 3yrs ago, myPeugeot308 warranty expiry date is now just around the corner.

The car will be sent for the scheduled maintenance at the authorised SC (for the last time) - probably next week. Expecting all warranty claims could be done fully, after which "the Final Drive" before warranty expires will take place...

stay tuned....

Intermittent Power Loss - Your Turn Could be Next!

2012-02-02T06:27:00.005+08:00

If you have a Peugeot powered by EP6-DT* engine, sooner or later there is a chance for you to experience "Intermittent Power Loss" as a result of any of the following combination of faults associated with but not limited to "Super Knocks", "Fuel Regulation Problem", "Rich Fuel Mixture", "Lean Fuel Mixture at full Load", etc...

Don't worry if you haven't come across it yet, please be patient your turn could be next, sooner or later.

Many ppl suspect (or accuse) there might be an issue with the RON # and quality of local fuel, but that could be incorrect and baseless. Biasalah tu..:)

When your turn comes, try to reset/update the ECU (you need an OBD2 diagnostic gadget. If you already have a laptop, all you need is a diagnostic software and a USB interface dongle for under RM100 from eBay, if you are willing to spend more you can buy a stand alone dedicated OBD2 gadget from less than RM500)

If the problems persist send the car to any authorised SC for through diagnosis and probably your Lion needs the following operation:

engine block disassembly
cleaning of the valves if there is excessive black soot in there
replacement of the engine cover with integrated valve heads
replacement of the Teflon layer between valve heads and valves
replacement the chain/tensioner*
etc... the list could be endless!

I was told by "somebody" this procedure was a suggestion from Peugeot France Technical Centre and was completely covered under warranty, since it was obviously a production fault. (*They even recommend timing chain/tensioner replacement as well, although it is not strictly necessary)

Question to ponder....

Did Peugeot discover something fishy with timing chain design/manufacturing? If so why not just recall all the effected cars? En. Nasarudin, be proactive la bro...

I hope this helps everybody with this issue, I know it could be frustrating .

Brake bed-in Procedure

2012-01-29T17:13:00.010+08:00

(updated on Feb. 1st 2012)

Before bed-in
New brake pads and skimmed rotor were installed in place.

In order for the new brake set to work at its best, the rotors and pads should be properly bedded-in. This process can also be called as "brake conditioning", or whatever terminology.

Proper bedding improves pedal feel [no "on-off" braking feel], reduces or eliminates brake squeal, prevents and cures brake judder, reduces brake dust, and extends the life of pads and rotors.

If you Google around, you will find different procedures for brake bed-in. You may follow any of those procedures but I've got my own way of doing it. You don't have to follow my way but you can take a peep... :)

myProcedure for Bed-in

Bed-in procedure can be annoying to other drivers so I had to perform the bed-in around 4:00am to 5:30am in two sessions during which time there is virtually no other vehicle on the road.

1st Session

Drove and accelerated the car to approximately 80kph and then applied the brake lightly until the speed dropped to around 20kph in 100m. Then accelerated back to 80kph and maintained the speed for 1 minute and then applied the brake lightly again. Repeated 10 times without completely stopping the car. After 10th braking, drove the car slowly for another 5km to cool down the pads and rotor before stopping.

Stopped the car for 30minutes to almost completely cool the brakes.

2nd Session

Repeated Session 1 at 110kph

Here is the result after the 2nd session...

... there is a slight blue tint on the rotor [disc] surface which is not in contact with the pad and a light grey film on the surface which is in direct contact with the pad.

The blue tint tells the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the grey 'coating' is the by product of the chemical reaction between pad material and the rotor under extreme temperature and pressure. This layer enhances adherent friction hence minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life. Without which the braking force depends solely on abrasive friction.

3rd Session

For the 3rd Session, the car was driven 122km non-stop. During the first 50km the car was driven and braked normally in order to "bake-up" brake pads and rotors gradually and maintained the temperature and then performed THREE hard braking from around 120-140kph down to 20kph .

Fully baked rotor with near perfect transfer-layer* formation...
*click HERE to find out what transfer-layer is all about and its significance.

4th Session

This was the final session. The car was driven for 382km at 'normal speeds'. Four times hard braking to dead stop was performed during the trip at approx. 50km interval. Braking performance was excellent. The best ever! Silky smooth but sure and firm. Adherent friction is superb.

Rotor condition after brake bed-in [conditioning] process was completed...

What Brake Bed-in is all about...

2012-01-27T18:01:00.002+08:00

Many ppl believe that brake bed-in is just the grinding process to make the brake pad and rotor [disc] rubbing surfaces match together perfectly for optimum abrasive friction.

Brake bed-in is actually more than that. I prefer to call it 'brake conditioning' because apart from grinding the process will also involve depositing of an even layer of coating material on the rotor surface [for adherent friction] as a result of chemical reaction between brake pad material and the rotor metal/alloy under extreme pressure and temperature. Without which the pads and rotor will be subject to excessive grinding hence reduce their life span. That's why some ppl who did not do proper 'brake conditioning' had to replace their brake pads/rotors sooner than the others either due to excessive wear & tear or juddering/vibration or both.

Proper 'brake conditioning' is important in order to optimise both abrasive and adherent friction for the best braking performance as well as to prolong life span of brake pads/rotors and to prevent brake judder, noise, vibration, etc...

How to do Brake Conditioning?

Just Google around. There are lots of different procedures available. Pick the one you think is suitable for you.

Remember ...

"Proper bedding makes it lust longer..." :)

Taking a Brake...

2012-01-27T08:44:00.012+08:00

MyPeugeot308 is almost 3yrs OTR and has just clocked 50,000km. Prior to the scheduled service it is the right time to replace front brake pads even though all pads are still usable up to at least 6000km more.

comparison between worn-out and fresh front brakepads

Why 6000km more?

The answer is because the remaining pad thickness is still more than 1 mm above wear limit. For instance, by measurement the average brake pad consumption is around 1 mm/6000km. This guide is valid for genuine pads and only if 308T is not driven on busy streets [or in towns/cities] where the right foot is spent more time on brake pedal than on the accelerator!.

Ready for the installation.
There is not much wear/damage on the stock rotors even after 50,000km of 'abuse'. A little skimming job is good enough to 'recond' them.
I still prefer genuine brake pads.

DIY Installation is complete...

Click HERE for more info on brake pads/discs and to see how to remove them.

One-Half Marathon

2012-01-23T08:08:00.003+08:00

By definition One-Half Marathon is a road running event of 21.0975 kilometres (13.1094 mi).

To us, "One-Half Marathon" means driving around 750km on a single trip. We usually drive around 1500km or 750km or at least 380km on a single return trip [we call them... full, one-half and one-qtr "marathon" respectively]. Anything less than that we don't call a "trip" and we usually don't follow.

This month we went on a day trip to Desaru from BBBangi. Total distance travelled was 763km.

Despite of holiday traffic congestion we managed to burn less than one-tank of RON95 fuel for the trip (to and fro). There was a "bip" followed by Low Level warning light came in as we approached near Seremban but the remaining fuel could take us more than 100km and sufficient enough to reach our home in BBBangi!

On return trip we felt there was a slight reduction in "pulling power" at high rpm [beyond 4000 rpm]. Luckily we brought along OBD2 gadget and found out there was a "Pending fault - lean fuel mixture at full load". After resetting the "pending fault" the car performed as usual. QED!

PCMSCAN

2012-01-07T10:14:00.005+08:00

PCMSCAN is just another OBD-II scanner and diagnostic tool for viewing, charting, logging and playback of diagnostic data in real time via the vehicle's OBD-II diagnostic data port. It also allows viewing of vehicle Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's), Freeze Frame data, and other vehicle information.

Unfortunately for myPeugeot 308T, PCMSCAN supports only 17 out of 110 available PIDs.

Nothing much to play around. Nonetheless it is still useful for monitoring and logging some of the the critical data, besides displaying "trouble codes" and able to reset 'em, if exist.
BTW, I'm using 'plug and play' ELM327 USB for the interface.

Garmin® ecoRoute™

2012-01-05T07:25:00.010+08:00

ecoRoute™ is a new feature for Garmin GPS navigators which allows users to find more fuel efficient routes when navigating and even track fuel usage. ecoRoute™ is available for Malaysia-Singapore version of nuvi 2575R that I'm using at the moment. With ecoRoute™, it is useful to save petrol and money by adopting smarter driving habits.

ecoRoute™ was tested for the first 500km drive [from BB Bangi to Kuala Perlis] during the previous 1500km trip to the Northern and North-Eastern states of Malayan Peninsular. The car was driven on auto-cruise without exceeding speed limits most of the time.

The screen capture below shows some of the ecoRoute™ applications.

There would be fuel report which tracks fuel usage over time, and mileage report which monitors mileage and fuel usage on a per-trip basis.

Fuel consumption trend for the 5hr drive

the ecoChallange™ score chart...

The drive was trying to keep the score as high as possible. Well >80% is 'A' already... :)

1500km-trip - Overall fuel Consumption trend

Fuel: RM231.42@ RM1.90/liter

Distance: 1596km

Avg fuel consumption: 7.63liter/100km or 14.5sen/km

Note: ecoRoute™ is NOT ecoRoute™ HD . Not withstanding, the later would be the most logical upgrade. Stay tuned!

Another 1500km Trip

2011-12-21T14:59:00.003+08:00

This time we were heading to the northern-most point of Malaya. Spent 3D2N around its vicinity before continuing the journey to the North-East state for a couple of days before returning home.

Actual tracklogs with Garmin eTrex Vista HCx for the entire 1500km trip.

Grik-Jeli hiway Profile

See also previous 1500km trip to the Eastern and Southern states of Peninsular Malaysia.

The suspension, ABS, EBD, EBA and stability control [ESP] on Peugeot 308 Turbo was tested on badly damaged and slippery road K20 between Sintok and Padang Sanai in Kedah on December 18th 2011.

This road should be avoided by all means unless you are driving on purpose.

How To Retrieve Trip Log from Garmin 2575R

2011-12-14T23:29:00.005+08:00

Connect the GPS set to a pc/laptop using provided USB cable
Turn on the GPS then select "Mass storage mode"

Open mapping application such as Mapsource from the pc/laptop then click "Receive from Device" icon. When Dialogue box appears select the right device from the pull-down list.
Select "Tracks" under "what to receive" and then click "Receive". When "Transfer complete" dialogue box appears click OK. Done.
List of track logs can be found under "Tracks" tab. Double click on any "Active log" from the list to view "Track Properties" where you can retrieve trip data such as date, time, speed, altitude, latitude, longitude, ...etc.
If you click "show profile" you will see the vertical profile for the entire track.

OBD2 Datalogger

2011-12-11T12:00:00.008+08:00

For less than RM400 this tiny OBD2 "black box" (35mm x 48mm x 25mm) can record/monitor simultaneously four out of 23 available parameters - e.g engine load, temperature, battery voltage, speed...etc

The stand alone OBD2 Datalogger can log car speed once every second and other data every 5, 10, 20, 30 or 60 seconds intervals as well for up to 300 hours of normal driving. When it’s full, it writes over the oldest data.

It has mini USB port and comes with a cable for connection to a PC and software. The software summarizes each trip with data on time, speed and distance.

One of interesting features is that after a trip, the application will not only show a summary of the drive but can display a line graph of speed and indicate where there was hard acceleration and braking. These are indications that someone has been driving in a potentially unsafe manner, such as with jack-rabbit starts and stops. Unfortunately it can’t show if the seat belts were not used.

The data-logger also watches the car’s operations and shows error codes if exist when it is connected to a pc. In the event of an accident it can grab the data for the last 20 seconds of the car’s operation, letting you prove your speed and whether you slammed on the brakes or otherwise.

Some of the Parameters Available for recording

Vehicle Speed	Range: 0 to 255 km/h Resolution: 1 km/h
Trip Distance Traveled	Range: 0 to 16,000 km Resolution: 0.1 km
Acceleration / Deceleration Threshold	Range: 0 to 3 G (0 to 30 m/sec²) Resolution: 0.03 G (0.3 m/sec²)
Engine Speed	Range: 0 to 16,384 rpm Resolution: 1 rpm
Throttle Position	Range: 0 to 100% Resolution: 0.1%
Coolant Temperature	Range: -40C to 215C Resolution: 1.0C
Engine Load	Range: 0 to 100% Resolution: 0.1%
Air Flow Rate	Range: 0 to 655.35 gm/sec Resolution: 0.01 gm/sec
Intake Air Temperature	Range: -40C to 215C Resolution: 1.0C
Intake Manifold Pressure	Range: 0 to 255 kPaA Resolution: 1 kPaA
Fuel Pressure	Range: 0 to 110 psi Resolution: 0.5 psi
O2 Sensor Voltage (up to 8 Monitored)	Range: 0 to 1.275 Volts Resolution: 0.005 Volts
Ignition Timing Advance	Range: -64° to 63.5° Resolution: 0.5°
Short Term Fuel Trim (Up to 2 Monitored)	Range: -100% to 99.22% Resolution: 0.8%
Long Term Fuel Trim (Up to 2 Monitored)	Range: -100% to 99.22% Resolution: 0.8%
Battery Voltage	Range: 6 to 16 Volts DC Resolution: 0.01 Volts DC

EXAMPLEs

Coolant temperature

Air intake temperature

Speeds

RPM

Depleted Fragrance Cartridge

2011-12-07T13:47:00.013+08:00

Don't throw away your Depleted Fragrance Cartridge.

You can reuse it for something that look a little canggih. You can use it as a nice looking and very practical 12v outlet cover...

very ngam in size and design.

... especially when you have multiple 12v-socket extensions and not use all of them.

If you have plenty of depleted fragrance cartridges you can use them to cover all those socket for safety and aesthetics as shown below.

Click HERE to see how to dismantle the depleted fragrance cartridge.

Let the Lion Sleep for a while

2011-11-18T17:16:00.004+08:00

After the 1500km trip the lion was cleaned and waxed...

Wrapped it up and keep it in the backyard garage for a week or two.

Showing sign of bigger problems ahead?

2011-11-10T17:23:00.007+08:00

Just returned home from 1500+km round trip to East Coast and southern states.

Drove the car w/o turbo pressure for more than 600km [after passing through Jertih and all the way to JB via Pekan/Mersing/Kota Tinggi], i.e about 40% of the entire journey . Felt like driving a tuned up 206 Bestari 1.4 8V, at best. Top speed on the new ECE2 in Terengganu was barely 180kph on the speedometer [175kph on data logger]. :(

At a SC in JB the 308THP was diagnosed for air-fuel mixture problem. Looks like the engine ECU did not get the input from gearbox when the gear was up shifted frm 1st. So no boost and no right amount of fuel was injected into combustion chambers hence insufficient/incorrect air-fuel mixture. The symptom started a few months ago, but a SC in KL diagnosed (wrongly?) for HPFP problem and it was replaced foc.

From JB onwards the car performed very well :) but by the time arrived in Melaka I was too tired and decided to drive leisurely on PLUS in AutoCruise mode at speed limits all the way home ...

The overall average fuel consumption was 1 liter more per every 100km!

Normally around 7.5liter/100km for similar trip!

The car is now 1000 days otr and barely done 50,000km. Anybody interested?

Peugeot 508 - the most logical choice

2011-10-22T22:20:00.018+08:00

The all-new, internationally acclaimed and award-winning Peugeot 508 was launched in Malaysia on October 18th, 2011. The car is priced at RM169,888.00 OTR. The first shipping of Peugeot 508's has been 'over-subscribed' by those who had already booked the car even before it was launched here! I do remember I was also one of those early birds for the 308 almost 3 yrs ago...

In Q1, Q2 and Q3 y2011 about 4000 units of Peugeot are sold in Malaysia by Nasim Sdn Bhd. Other than 508 there are also 407, RCZ, 308 [THP, VTi, GT and CC], 207 sedan, 3008, 5008... Nasim Sdn Bhd, the exclusive distributor of Peugeot in Malaysia is expecting to sell between 150 to 200 units of Peugeot cars per month.

Specifications

Size and weight

479 cmLength

185 cmWidth

146 cmHeight

282 cmWheelbase

11.9 mTurning circle

1375 kgKerb weight

72 literFuel capacity

515 /996 literLuggage space

Engine and Performance

min. RON 95 PetrolFuel

1598 ccCapacity

4/16Cylinders / valves

156 bhp @ 5800 rpmMax power

240 Nm @ 1400 rpmMax torque

Front wheelsDrive

6 speed auto adaptive with paddle-shiftGears

9.2 secsAcceleration (0 - 100kph)

220 kphTop speed

44.2 mpgAverage mileage

30.7 mpgMileage urban

58.8 mpgMileage extra urban

149 gr / kmCO2 emissions

Safety and Equipment

5-Star Euro NCAP Safety Rating
ABS, EBD, EBA, ESP, ASR, DSC
drivers & passengers airbag
2 curtain airbags
hill start assist
transponder immobilizer
alarm security system
electric rear door child lock
many more....

2D1N at Banding

2011-10-13T00:26:00.024+08:00

On return trip from Kelantan, stopped over at Banding Lakeside Inn, Temenggor Lake, near Royal Belum State Park for 2D1N.

click on the images to enlarge

Click for more pictures HERE

Nite Trip to Kelantan

2011-10-07T20:10:00.010+08:00

As usual, as a "nite-rider" I'll be driving just after mid-night. I always prefer to travel in a hatch-back than in a D-segment saloon because the former like the 308 can provide a comfortable [golden-club like] sleeping berth for any passenger in need, such as an elderly father/mother, grandpa/grandma or a mother with a small baby...

As long as you are shorter than 5' 6" there is more than enough space for a good nite sleep in there...

With this arrangement, the 308 still can accommodate three adult passengers + a driver comfortably without sacrificing space for the luggage - of course you need a cargo net.

Top Speed 224km/h

2011-09-28T01:17:00.009+08:00

Click HERE to watch all Videos

Highway Obstacles

2011-09-19T07:26:00.006+08:00

There are times when you are in hurry for appointments. Even though you are sure to arrive on time there are occasions when your timing could be jeopardised due to obstacles by ego drivers as shown below...

I didn't mean to race with them. Otherwise I would have cucuk them as close as possible and kept changing lanes. I hate to drive like that but sometimes I had to. Watch also this video [I regretted for driving that way actually - i.e. overtaking frm LHS and kept changing lanes but what to do, sometimes your patience got limit also kan] .

In the following videos I kept a safe distance from the speeding cars in front of me and stuck to my lane even though I had chance to overtake frm LHS. These are my typical way of driving my.Peugeot.308 on hi-ways fast lanes.

Part 1: ' Chasing' and chased back by an Audi TT

It was around 4:50pm at BBBangi interchange. As I entered PLUS (northbound) there was a glimpse of a speeding Audi TT down the highway. So I thought the traffic ahead was clear and I could arrive on time.

I got only less than 15 minutes to arrive somewhere in Jalan Klang Lama. So I had to drive 'faster than normal'... at first I did not think I could match up with the speed of the Audi.

Finally the Audi driver slowed down and gave way or probably he was afraid of the speed trap or he just wanted to know what car was speeding behind him. Nevertheless, not long after that [from frame 2:02] the Audi driver chased me back but I think he was not brave enough to match up with my speed at that time and the traffic was also getting congested as well. Both of us had to slow down for a while.

[note: there are 'dropped frames' for a few seconds at 1:57 ]

Berely a minute later the traffic was clear again but I was...

Part 2: Obstructed by a Volvo S80

Volvos with T5 and T6 engines are phenomena, I'd never tried my luck to cucuk them. Not because of the cars raw power but I know what kind of men behind their steering wheels. Otherwise they would have bought the car for the wrong purpose. Volvo S60 T5 is my non-German dream family_car actually. Nevertheless Volvo S80 2.0T is not my piece of cake even though its performance is respectable and on par if not better than Peugeot 308 GT.

The Volvo S80 2.0T in front of me in the following video I boleh balun w/o much difficulty if I wished -the car was driven by an ego driver. He didn't give me way even though it looked like that was the quickest acceleration and fastest speed he could brave enough along that stretch of the hiway [from frame 1:17].

Finally I arrived at the destination just on time within less than 15minutes [from BBBangi interchange].

Let's beat up the drum....

2011-09-18T23:31:00.010+08:00

Sunday, Sept 18th., 2011

It was just after 7pm when I was rushing home on PLUS southbound. I had to be home before sunset. Moderate traffic but smooth. As usual when you drive on fast lane there are always drivers who don't give way, especially when they are driving in cars like BMW, Audi and alike... [A Ferrari also like that]

Been following a BMW and an Audi for a while. I had no choice but to overtake 'em from the left. Suddenly these BMW and Audi started to chase me. Probably they just wanted to test the waters. I hope they are not serious though...

OK, lets beat up the drum!. [turn ur speaker volume aloud]

p/s I'd just replaced myLion's heart [still under warranty]. The new heart could pump enough blood when needed.

Seconds Before Disater

2011-09-17T23:36:00.004+08:00

Saturday, Sept 10th., 2011.

It was around 0811hrs. As I was speeding [guess what was the speed] suddenly a motobike changes lane right in front of me without giving any signal. Watch what happened...

It was on my way to a service center in KL to diagnose for my 308T intermittent power loss when the car gets hot. Normally after driving for more than 200km. In such a situation the boost pressure seems to drop or totally lost that makes the car behave as if it is powered by a VTi engine.

Soon it was diagnosed for the problematic High-Pressure Fuel Pump. The pump was replaced foc. Legaaa...

400m standing with new HPFP

2011-09-17T23:20:00.007+08:00

Saturday, Sept 17th., 2011

After replacing the Hi-Pressure Fuel Pump the car was tested for straight line performance. Only one test was needed - i.e the 400 meter standing.

Running time, Leg Length [total: 8+12+14+17+..... =399m] and Speeds were recorded with a data logger as shown below:

Without plotting charts, it can be seen at 9th second the speed was 98km/hr and at the 16th second the car already arrived near the 400m line at 132km/hr. Hence the original performance has been restored. See original performance data HERE (century acceleration) and HERE (400m standing)

The Ultimate Cree Q5 PROJECTOR LED for DRL 1157 bulb replacement

2011-09-11T17:15:00.000+08:00

Sunday, Sept 11th., 2011

I had tested/used six sets of 1157 LED clusters for the 308 DRL's. All of them ended up as electronic garbage. Click HERE for more info.

The only reason for the failure is that those 1157 LED clusters do not have current limiting circuit hence not suitable for extended use as DRL's.

Finally I found 1157 5W Cree Q5 LED on eBay. The design makes it stand out from the rest.

The 'Projector bulb' comes with double lens for optimum optics.

... and make it 'ngam' with the retrofit HID projector headlight.

The 5W Cree Q5 LED brightness is comparable with the stock 21W tungsten-filament bulb even under bright sunlight .

Picture : comparison amongst the stock 1157 Tungsten-filament DRL, the new 5W Cree Q5 Projector LED and the 'Merc W212-like' LED strips.

Picture : comparison between 'super bright' LED and the new 5W Cree Q5 Projector LED

An old Horse in the eyes of a naughty Lion...

2011-09-10T23:51:00.003+08:00

Saturday, Sept 10th., 2011

The Horse could run away, but could not hide from the eyes of a Lion. Finally the Horse gave way!

Watch also near miss accidents between the Ferrari and a pickup truck [@1:22nd sec] and a new proton saga [@1:59th sec]. What a reckless driver!

Had Fun with H/C 2.0

2011-09-10T23:41:00.003+08:00

Early morning drag with a stock Honda Civic 2.0.

Cucuk a modded Honda Civic 2.0 he heeee...

Cucuk Mat Rempit

2011-09-10T22:52:00.003+08:00

Aku cucuk dari Mat Rempit hingga Ferrari...

only play play laah...

Cheapo Onboard Solid State Video Cam

2011-09-08T11:39:00.002+08:00

Have fixed up a ChapAyam Solid State Video Camera on the 308 windscreen. A 16GB SD card can capture about 8 hrs of video in successive of 2 or 5 or 15-min clips. When the SD is full, the first and subsequent clips will be replaced by the latest recordings.

Click HERE for more info. At US$35 including postage is a steal!

Which hatchback ?

2011-09-07T18:03:00.007+08:00

Today, if someone asks for advice on a hatchback, I would straight away recommend to consider the all new Polo GTi.

No other car below RM150k looks and performs like it! Get 'em while they're hot!!!

Thinking of getting a new ride...

2011-09-04T05:27:00.004+08:00

I'm torn between the two. Either E? or X? [originally V? was also in the list]. All of them can punch out more than 300bhp/tonne and capable of sprinting from standstill to 100km/hr in less than 6 seconds [some say less than 5 seconds is also possible]

Price for both starts from RM3?. Don't have to rob banks to own one, but must take time to decide. Anybody can guess whot izit?

BTW the ól faithful 308T is not for sale for time being...

AHW E-Classic

2011-08-20T06:02:00.017+08:00

I've just 'returned home' from a mission and now I'm going to be a free person - effectively on Monday Aug 22nd 2011 I'll be a pensioner. I opt for early retirement actually. I just want to celebrate a life and spend more time on hobbies and things I like most. Don't want to think and talk about work anymore for time being....or may be forever as long as I live. Life is too short.

I'm not going to update this blog as often as before because I wanna concentrate and spend more time on the E-Classic refurbishment.

Click HERE for more.

My next 'project' is to acquire a new 'big-boys toy' which is capable to do 100km/hr sprint in less than 6 seconds and 400m standing in less than 13 seconds. Soon afterwards the 'Old' faithful 308 will be kept as a family hatch.

Stay tuned.

Some of the VDOs caught with AHW308 onboard videocam.

2011-07-08T19:14:00.021+08:00

Night-time driving with retrofit Projector- 4300K 35W HID lights @ low-beam

Taking Fast Curve Tips

2011-07-08T11:02:00.032+08:00

Many people like to test their new 308 Turbos for speeds on highways. If the road is straight and level it doesn't matter be it a novice or an expert, one can floor the accelerator pedal but if there is a curve special attention must be taken for negotiating it at high speeds.

Of course highway curves are the easiest and safest to negotiate at high speeds but it cannot be taken for granted. I've seen many incidents involving fast sport cars skidded and went off the line on PLUS. Probably the drivers rely too much on the car raw power without understanding the car dynamics and limits.

Entering the curve
I'm no expert, but to the experts the curves can be taken without a significant slow-down or trail braking.
Instead, the expert matches the speed and gear more sympathetically beforehand... and turns the car appropriately into the curve with the foot lightly on the accelerator pedal before flooring again around the apex and let the car accelerate as he turns the steering wheel back for the straight line.

At high speeds the turning radius can also be controlled by the throttle besides steering wheel. More throttle will set turning radius wider [under-steer], less or no throttle will set tighter corners [over-steer] and will even make real wheels skid and make the car spin!

What to do when rear wheels skid?
Don't worry and menggelabah. 308 Turbos have ESP which will cut-off engine power and lock front wheel [the outside wheel of the curve] to adjust trajectory back to the intended line of the curve. If ESP does not activate, the accelerator pedal MUST be completely eased off then slide the steering wheel just a bit and then re-apply the throttle as hard as possible .

Exiting a fast curve
Upon exiting a fast curve, the throttle must be applied very quickly, as the wheels would never spin at such speeds.Practice makes perfect! I'm still practicing though....

40,000km Service

2011-07-05T22:43:00.011+08:00

AHW308 has already clocked 40,000km. Sent for scheduled service/maintenance at regular SC. 'BMO' oil and Ori Peugeot's NGK Platinum Spark Plugs. Total expenses for 40,000km-service was RM771.20.

Platinum Spark Plug electrodes at 40,000km

Tyres were also replaced with another set of CSC3 225/45/17

CSC3 tyre condition after being abused for 40,000km vs new

Notes:
1. The Ori Battery was replaced foc 18months ago [after barely 1 yr of abuse] and still kicking strongly! Probably will last over 2yrs...

2. The front brake pads/discs are still OK. May be need replacement for the first time at 50,000km. Whereas rear brake pads/disc can 'tahan' much longer.

Speeds in Different Gears

2011-07-04T15:30:00.019+08:00

Speeds
Peugeot 308 THP140 AL4 approximate speeds in each gear at various engine speeds (rpm) in "manual" mode. You can either drive your Peugeot 308 for fuel economy OR for performance - not both at the same time.

Sprint
'Normal Sprint' to 170kph in just 10seconds flat after kena flash-flash by smaller cars from behind while cruising at 140kph. 170kph is more than enough to get away from those annoying highway mosquitoes .

Those mosquitoes normally give up after being smoked.. Click HERE for 400m and 1000m sprint timings.

Fake Auto Parts Sdn Tanggung

2011-06-30T12:54:00.003+08:00

Counterfeiting in the automotive industry is not a new problem. In the past fake/imitation/counterfeit parts were mainly on non-safety items such as skirting, spoiler and body parts.

Today, the authority has many times warned that many cars could be death-traps for using safety-related fake/imitation items - such as brake pads, brake discs, suspension and steering linkages. There were many cases where cars fitted with fake brake pad /discs and steering linkages made of very low quality materials involved in fatal accidents.

Consumers should use reputable service centers. However, even some service centers may be unaware the parts are fake because they may be conned into buying what they believe to be cheap genuine products. The problem is that the fake/counterfeit products today have been designed to look like almost perfect replicas of the genuine product, so people don't know a counterfeit when they see one.

Now... fake engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, spark plug, oil filter, air filter, etc. are easily available on-line and from your own 'friends' at lower costs and you think can save some money....but you are probably buying fake/imitation/counterfeit products.

Now, think a moment. .. how much is your life worth?

Are Your Brembo Discs Genuine?

2011-06-29T07:03:00.023+08:00

I asked Brembo how to identify if the discs are genuine. I was informed that Genuine Brembo Discs should...

be either blanks, cross-drilled, or slotted. No combination of cross-drilled and slotted. The drilled or slotted discs are coated in a zinc/cadmium plating to help prevent rust and ensure disc longevity.

have identification number starting with "09" or "08" such as 09.xxxx.xx. The Brembo discs also have a Brembo Logo and stamp on the disc lip.

came in a thick brown cardboard box. The fakes came in a thin white cardboard box.

be machined all surfaces including inside hat except on the ventilation vanes. Fake discs have rough cast hat, with a wide gap between the rotor vanes and the braking surface - not machined at all.

weigh heavier than the fake discs. Brembo brake rotors are high carbon discs, and have the ability to better dampen vibration and noise

have two equal and identical braking surfaces. Both sides have exactly the same thickness [10mm?]. Fakes Brembo discs have one side thicker than the other.

have Ventilation Vanes extend out to the very outer edge of the braking surface (both inside and outside). Fake Vanes are sunken into the disc surface around 6mm (on the inside and outside), meaning there is less material connecting the two disc surfaces.

Fake Brembo Discs...

Both discs are fake!

The Genuine "Brembo"stamping c/w logo are clean and more easily distinguishable...

... whereas the disc shown below with not-so-sharp "Brembo MAX" stamping and w/o logo is questionable. You judge it for yourself. I'm doubtful and I will not buy this one...

WARNING! Imitation Spark Plugs

2011-06-28T08:06:00.035+08:00

How to Identify Imitation Spark Plugs? [from NGK website]

click on the image to enlarge

When I checked the factory fitted NGK platinum spark plugs on my Peugeot 308 I got these laser-print "four-digit number" on the bi-hex... "H7Z8." as shown in the picture below.

and also some numbers are stamped on the spark plug body [serial number or something?].

Genuine NGK electrodes [platinum tip and disc] at 40,000km!...

...the tip and disc are still shiny and intact - probably counterfeit tip and disc would have already vaporized at 40,000km.

What about "Laser Iridium" spark plugs which some of you and I bought on-line?

The welding around the electrode looks a little weird to me....

There is also no "four-digit number" stamped/printed on the bi-hex.
I decided not to use these "questionable" spark plugs. Investigation with NGK is in progress.

UPDATE: Received an email from Andrew Hauenstein, Technical & Training Specialist, NGK Spark Plugs (USA), Inc - Friday July 1st 2011

"The build date (four-digit code) should be marked vertically on the BI-Hex. Yes our Laser plugs are laser welded.... ",

So IMHO, NGK spark plugs without the "four-digit" code marking on the bi-hex could be fake or failed QC.

Iridium Spark Plugs

2011-06-24T07:24:00.012+08:00

FAQ: Any Improvement in Performance for using Iridium Spark Plug?
I think they add nothing more to performance than new and clean standard spark plugs. Experts also say little to none as far as power gains.
They might last longer since Iridium alloy spark plugs take longer to wear out.

What is Iridium in the First Place?
Iridium is a very hard and brittle metal [in the same family as the Platinum], is one of the rarest elements ever found on earth. It is the heaviest metal known to mankind beside Osmium and is the most corrosion-resistant metal even at 2000 °C. Annual production and consumption only three tonnes. As expensive as Gold but Iridium alloys [with Osmium and Ruthenium] can be up to five times more expensive!

Some scientists suggest that Iridium [first discovered in 1803] came down to the earth with the asteroids because it is found in meteorite fragments much higher than its average abundance in the Earth's crust...

Why Iridium Spark Plug?
Iridium spark plugs wear out much slower due to its super strength against corrosion/oxidation/wear&tear at extreme temperatures and pressures in hell-like environment of the combustion chambers.

Nevertheless, it is a common misconception that Iridium spark plugs give more horse power and better fuel consumption. The truth is if the conventional spark plug is new and in good condition, we still can get best fuel consumption and maximum performance from the engine.

It doesn't matter which kind of spark plug we use as long as it is within the specifications. If freshly installed, there is no difference at all. But after more than 20,000km, the cheap or standard plugs give a little bit more fuel consumption and reduce power while the Iridium plugs are still as good as new....

... up to 200,000km for iridium spark plug with platinum ground-electrode[?]

What about "Multi-electrode" spark plugs?
This type of spark plugs produce only one spark on the smallest gap available. The wear is divided over multiple gaps so it stays "fresher" for a longer time. For instance, for a 4-electrode spark plug, it takes about 4 times longer for those to show the same wear as standard plugs.

This means that we can keep them 4 times longer or replace them in the normal interval and have a better spark in average. Again, it is another myth saying that multi-electrode spark plug gives higher performance.I use 4-electrode plugs for a D-segment car and keep them twice as long. This generates the same costs for spare plugs but gives me a slightly better spark where standard ones would be seriously worn already.

The Truths?
Iridium and multi-electrode spark plug do not produce higher horse-power and give lower fuel consumption so to speak. They just maintain top performance longer than the conventional/standard spark plus. That's all...

Conclusion?
As an analogy, it does not matter whether you use 18k-Gold Zippo Lighter or Mancis Cap Lada to light-up an Altadis’ Behike Cigar!

Night Riders be Prepared...

2011-06-21T21:16:00.018+08:00

I prefer to drive after midnight for non-stop long distance journeys - just like inter-continental flights from KLIA.
Reasons for a Long-Distance Night Rider
Usually I go to bed as early as 9:30pm and wake up around 2:00 - 3:00am and sleep again around midday during lunch hours w/o taking any meal because I normally take brunch at 10:00am and dinner around 5:00pm.

Danger for Night Riders!
Surely, there are fewer vehicles on the road after midnight but ironically it is the riskiest time for driving. There are many factors which increase the risk of "after midnight driving".

Most people on the road are likely to be tired and sleepy.

Headlight beam from incoming vehicles causing a nuisance to other road users which can leave them blind or black-out for up to a few seconds. The lights of vehicles 'cucuk' from behind also can cause glare.

Cows, water buffalo and other 'night-active' animals camouflage in the darkness, may appear suddenly on the road out of nowhere and too late for the driver to respond in time.

Heavy vehicles such as lorries, trucks, buses are driven by Night Riders

Night Riders be Prepared for Yourselves FIRST...
If you are going to be driving at night, no matter what your age, it is vitally important that you are prepared. If you end up making an unexpected trip in the dark and find yourself tired, it's essential that you pull over and rest in a safe place so that you are not a danger to yourself or others on the road. Remember, tired driving is as dangerous as drunk driving because your reaction time can be equally affected, plus you run the risk of falling asleep at the wheel.

Other things that you can do to make your night time trips as safe as possible.

Make sure that you see your eye doctor regularly for eye exams. (At least once every two years, more often if you have certain conditions. Diabetics should see their eye doctor every year.) This way any problems with night vision can be noted and dealt with. I take green tea or teh o without sugar...

Don't forget your vitamins. Vitamin A deficiency causes a condition called night blindness which can make it difficult or impossible to drive safely at night. I drink carrot susu...

Prepare Your Car
There are several things that you should do to get your car ready for safe night driving. This includes making it easier for you to see where you are going as well as easier for others to see where you are without causing nuisance to other road users.
Click for what I've done to Light Bulbs and Day Running Lights [DRL].

Make sure that your head-lights and tail-lights are all working properly. The head-light covers must be clean whenever you head out on a nighttime trip, especially when there's bad weather like rain, mist or fog. Your headlights should also be properly aimed so that they are focused and directed correctly. Click HERE.

Make sure that your windshield are clean so that there is no glare or obstructed vision.

Adjust your outside mirrors so that they are in the right place; the body of your car should be just outside of the vision of the mirrors. Your rear and side mirrors should also be adjusted so that the glare from the headlights behind you is not a problem - our 308T rear view mirror has anti-glare feature though.

While on the road

Night vision can be affected before the sun even goes down, so to make sure that your eyes stay sensitive.

Make sure that you are looking from side to side so that your eyes stay sensitive to the darkness.

Do not look at oncoming headlights while driving, it can leave you blind for as much as five full seconds.

Make sure that you use the right/legal color temperature [ 'Legal' color temperature is 4300K ~ 4700K] and set your light beams correctly.

If you are driving in the fog, use your low beams or/and fog-lights only because the high beams will not allow you to see well due to direct reflections. Make sure that you don't use your high beams if traffic is coming toward you either, and hopefully oncoming traffic will afford you the same courtesy.

If you find yourself staring at the white line or other fixed object for too long, you may succumb to ‘highway hypnosis,’ which will decrease your reaction time.

If you are driving through forest such as from Kuala Lipis to Gua Musang, use your peripheral vision to watch for animals on the sides of the road. Often times, you won't see the animal themselves, but their eyes reflecting the headlights of passing cars. If you have any passengers in your vehicle, ask them to keep watch so you can focus your attention on your driving.

Continually evaluate your night-time driving skills, so that you are not endangering yourself and others. Sadly, night vision tends to worsen with age, so at some point you may need to limit your night-time driving.

Night time driving can be full of unpleasant surprises, so always expect the unexpected. Make sure you're alert at all times and ready for any emergency situation that could possibly crop up. Above all else, if at any point you feel like you're not seeing clearly, find a safe spot to pull over. And if you can't remedy the situation, just wait for daylight. It's much better to arrive a little later than planned, than to risk your safety and everyone else.

Nevertheless, the advantage after midnight is smooth high-speed driving - most of the time on Auto-Cruise is possible. Also less wear & tear on brake-pads/disk, tyres, air-cond system, etc... and of course less consumption on fuel.

I will be on another inter-continental night trip soon.
Till then, so loooongggg!!!

Happy Motoring

Peugeot 308 Turbo - the first 40,000km Expenses

2011-06-21T09:38:00.014+08:00

I drive my cars [B, C, and D-segments] more than 30,000km in total per year. More than half of the total distance traveled was done in Peugeot 308T, the car which I normally drive for long distance trips throughout Malaya. Other cars are too old or too small for such long journeys...

The 308 hits 40,000km in slightly more than two years. The following are the actual expenses as a guide for the first young buyers...
As shown in the above table, about 2/3 of the monthly average expenses goes to installments and downpayments. Only 1/3 of the expenses used for running and maintaining the car. If you just have only one car, you would have traveled more and there will be higher average monthly expenses needed.

My early estimate around RM3000 per month for owning and running the 308T was not far off. I've heard a few young and freshly graduated fellas earning around RM3000pm were aiming at this car. Boleh hidup ke jang? Even yg bergaji sekitar RM5000 sebulan pun sekadar cukup makan je kalo pakai keto ni...

...and please don't even think of dreaming of an RCZ!

Do not just look at fuel and schedule maintenance expenses - look at the whole cost and figure out whether you are affordable or not in a long run... pastikan yg berhutang dgn PTPTN atau yg seumpamanya jelaskan bayaran bulanan tu dulu... [harap semua anak2 buah uncle baca ni]

Sorry ya.... uncle membebel siket harini. Org tua2 mmg camtu. he heee...

Peugeot 308 Turbo Part Pricing

Happy Father's Day

2011-06-19T16:54:00.004+08:00

A card frm a daughter of mine, Yayah [N.H. Wan]...

Do All Peugeot 308 Have Negative Camber?

2011-06-18T19:48:00.030+08:00

What is Camber?
The camber is the angle, measured in degrees, between the center line of the wheel and the perpendicular to the ground, looking from the front.

What is Negative Camber ?
Negative camber is when the top of the wheel leans inwards. Extreme Negative Cambers are very common on racing cars in the 60's...
.. at which time I was still running naked racing old bicycle rims with cousins as depicted by Lat in "the Kampong Boy" .

Why Negative Camber?
According to my old school book negative camber improves grip for the outside tire on which most of the loads are concentrated when cornering.

The tyre tends to roll on itself while cornering. If non-negative camber, the inside edge of the contact patch would begin to lift off and reduce the area of the contact patch.
Negative camber reduces this effect and optimising the contact patch area hence the grip.However, negative camber is no good for straight-line performance because the maximum traction is achieved if the tyre tread is flat on the road i.e when the camber angle is zero. Negative Camber also makes inside tyre tread wear out faster hence tyres are forced to 'retire' earlier than expected...

I love Negative Camber because most of the roads I drive on need it....

How do I know myPeugeot 308 has Negative Camber?
By looking at the tyres when they are almost 'retired'...

CSC3 at 40-thousand km vs unused spare tyre.

At 40-thousand km, I thought the tyres on myPeugeot 308 would last for at least another 10-thousand km because the remaining outside tread was still 2mm above wear indicator.
Note: average tread consumption is around 1mm/5000km.However, when the tyres were taken out for routine DIY inspection, to my surprise the inside tread on all four tyres had gone. Botak licin you....!!!So, these are the inferences/evidence that Peugeot 308 has Negative Cambers on all wheels!. Whereas myPeugeot 206 and myPeugeot 405s have no camber angle at all on rear wheels hence the tyres on them worn out evenly ever since.

BTW, I've already replaced all the tyres on myPeugeot 308 at 40-thousand km.

1157 LED for DRL?

2011-06-16T07:02:00.023+08:00

If any of you guys want to replace existing Day Running Lights (DRL) 1157 tungsten-filamen bulbs on your Peugeot 308 turbo with anything similar to THESE LEDs ... forget it. Don't waste your time and money. Do not buy!

1157 LED conversion light bulbs similar to THESE are not durable to be used as DRL on your Peugeot 308 Turbos.

So far I had tested SIX different sets of 1157 LEDs... ... and ALL of them kaput with at least one LED burned within one week of usage! I even assembled 'em by myself. Click HERE to see how I did. Probably those LEDs can be used at full brightness for 'short duration' such as turn-indicator and brake lights only - not for extended use like the DRLs. Special LEDs and electronic circuitry are required for extended use at full brightness. It was very difficult and expensive to buy aftermarket 'Audi-like' LED DRL before y2010.

Fortunately, as a result of European Union Directive coming into force on the Feb 7th 2011 all new passenger cars and small delivery vans throughout the EU will have to come equipped with daytime running lights. Since then, the right LED arrays for DRLs could be found easily at reasonable price.

Click HERE to find which one is suitable for you. I prefer 'W212-like' LED arrays. By installing them upside down, the LED arrays match and 'flow' with the curves on the front part of the 308...

These new DRL LED arrays are a lot brighter than the 'super bright' 1157 LEDs.

At the moment I use both - to compare their durability.

ECU Remapping may Damage your Turbo if...

2011-06-13T13:35:00.010+08:00

Turbo Engines engines rely heavily on computer controlled Engine_management Control Unit [ECU]. Basically the engine has an array of sensors which monitor lots of things such as throttle position, crank position, airflow etc. These signals are sent to the ECU, which processes the information received to give the best engine performance for any given driving condition.

ECU remapping can alter engine performance for higher output and/or for better fuel consumption, nevertheless be extra careful even if the tuner a top programmer.

There are many tuners offering what seem like custom ECU remapping. Most of these tuners use and alter programs that are cheaply available through the internet or other sources and are not 'ngam' with the car engine requirements. These can actually damage the turbo/engine.

Remaping alone may not be adequate for the upgrade. Get a professional to do the job and you must get ready to spend on hardware upgrade as well - without which you will need to spend more money on repair bills later.

For performance you will probably reprogram the ECU to control ignition timing advance, force more fuel and more air into the combustion chambers, and make the turbo overspin and hold on to higher pressure than the turbo unit/system can handle and delay/never let the BOV open, which will ultimately damage it. Solution - get a better turbo system before remapping!For fuel economy and power - if you are familiar with nitro-methane RCM car engines you will know what to do at the expense of engine overheating, simply make the air-fuel mixture lean. The same applies to EP6DT engines. Go on reprogram the ECU at your own risk and save money on fuel to partially pay for the damage later on.For instance, PSA produces different EP6DT engine outputs [140THP, 150THP, 156THP, 175THP, 200THP....] based on similar engine but for each output there is not just the difference in ECU program but the turbo system and other hardware are unique .

Btw, even a stock Pug 308 THP140 is capable of hitting 100km/hr in around 9 secs, 1000m standing in less than 30sec, top speed more than 200km/hr .... still not enough for a 1.6liter family hatch?

Think about it! Again and again.

Fuel Saving Device - Anybody Interested?

2011-06-12T15:28:00.003+08:00

With the consistently rising price of fuel many will find and try anything to improve the fuel consumption of their cars. Then they come across things like run your car on water, magnetic fuel saver, fuel saving tablets/additives, and many others. Those products claim to save money and give car better performance.

As long as cars have existed, inventors and salesmen have tried to sell fuel saver devices designed to give dramatic gains in fuel economy and power. While most of these devices install easily, and most are relatively inexpensive, the vast majority of these products very rarely meet the promises of their designers. Actually they are pure gimmicks and use false science to describe how they work and many of them will actually cause more problems or even a reduction in car performance and economy.. Don't be fooled.

Some of them are:
Magnets - By attaching to your fuel system it claim to alter the structure of the fuel as it passes through the lines are absolute not true. The explanation are based on false science. Hidro-carbon molecules do not attract to magnet!

Serbo - Is actually a device installed along air intake to ‘swirl’ the air before it enters into the engine, claimed to increase engine power as much as 20%. Do you believe? The fact is Supercharging an engine is a complex modification and is not just another plug and play toy. This is another gimmick and not worth spending the money. Our EP6DT twin scroll turbo in tandem with the ECU already work perfectly under all driving conditions.

Vaporiser/Atomizer - Claims to improve burning efficiency by vaporising the fuel that enters the engine. Probably only works on carburetor engines when it is cold. Fortunately direct fuel injection on our Peugeot 308 engine already have this effect.

Water Power - "wotta powwa" as how the Japanese pronounce. Sounds like Tsu-na-mi , hee.. heee... Basically it is a device that claims to convert water into hydrogen gas and improve the power and efficiency of the engine. Theoretically possible but these devices are at most could barely power an a/cond blower or radiator/condenser cooling fan!

Octane Booster - One should be very careful when using this chemical, as they may be harmful to the engine. True, some products work, but mostly don't. Be careful . In market there are plenty of imitation products. Racing teams have their secret recipe and develop on their own and not for sale.

These devices/chemical which claim to give reduction in fuel consumption may actually even cause potential engine damage or failure.

If you really want to save fuel, just improve your driving habits, choose cost effective route to follow and pump in the right fuel. Remember that who drives where, when and how is the main contributor to fuel saving.

Happy Motoring

Does anyone need a Voltage Stabilizer?

2011-06-11T05:37:00.020+08:00

A Voltage stabilizer could be just a simple black-box of many capacitors... sometimes comes with attractive and convincing digital displays or blinking/colorful led's. ... attached directly across a battery at the positive and negative terminals to regulate the flow of electricity running from a car's battery to its electrical components. Plug n Play type is also available...The Voltage Stabilizers are believed can smooth idling, increase battery life, improve combustion efficiency hence increase power/torque, decreased emissions, improve output from headlights and audio equipment, etc....

The truth is the battery itself is already like a large voltage stabilizer.
Everybody knows that the electrical system in most cars is 12 volt [24 volt system also got]. However, the charging system generates a voltage between 13.2 and 14.5 volts [based on my old school book] while the engine is running because it has to generate higher voltage than the battery's rated voltage to overcome the wiring and internal resistance of the battery. The current needed to recharge the battery would not flow at all if the charging system's output voltage is lower than or the same as the battery terminal voltage. There is also a voltage regulator at the alternator to regulate the dc voltage output.

Peugeot 405 Voltage Regulator

The alternator generate electricity and send it to the battery and other electrical loads. During low or moderate loads the excess electricity generated by the alternator charges the battery rather than increasing the voltage/current flow to the car electrical system and damaging them. When the demand of a car's electrical system exceeds the alternator output [normally at idling speeds] electricity is withdrawn from the battery to fill up the deficit.

Now, anyone still need a voltage stabilizer?

Lowest Fuel Consumption with Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra!

2011-06-05T15:00:00.021+08:00

[updated version on June 7th 2011]

After 'flushing' my 308T combustion chambers with a few tanks of the new Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra I decided to carry out actual tests for the fuel consumptions on different kind of driving conditions covering more than 1200km.

BBBangi - Simpang Pulai - Gua Musang - Machang & around Kelantan - Kuala Berang-Kuantan - KLumpur - BBBangi.
Day 1: June 4th 2011
Sector 1: Economy Drive [215km] - 'warming-up lap' with auto-cruise without exceeding speed limits on PLUS from BBBangi to Simpang Pulai.

Average Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra Consumption: 5.8liter/100km
The Best Fuel Consumption running on normal RON95 fuel was 6.2liter/100km

Sector 2: Pushing 308T to the Limits [152km] - Crossed Main Range by driving-up winding road from Simpang Pulai to Blue Valley, stopped about 45minutes to buy farm produce then continued with downhill challenge all the way to Gua Musang. At Gua Musang stopped for lunch.

Average Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra Consumption: 8.8liter/100km. Last test using normal RON95 fuel was 9.9liter/100km.

Sector 3: Normal Driving with lots of Traffics [145km] - Anybody who drives at midday between Gua Musang to Kuala Krai, especially during holidays knows what kind of driving condition one has to endure.

Average Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra Consumption: 7.0liter/100km
Normal RON 95 fuel consumption for this sector was 7.6liter/100km

Overall Average fuel consumption on the new Petronas PRIMAX95 Xtra for the Day1 515km-trip (SKV-SimpangPulai-GuaMusang-Machang) is 6.9liter/100km.
The best average fuel consumption for similar trip on other RON95 fuel was 7.8liter/100km.

Day 2: June 5th 2011
Sector 4: Driving around Kelantan [104km] - Drove the car 'normally' around towns and along trunk roads, sometimes caught in traffic jams .... no hiways in Kelantan of course. Honestly I don't enjoy driving here.

Average Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra Consumption: 7.1liter/100km
Previous tests on normal RON95 never got less than 8liter/100km for driving the 308T around this 'gedebe & cas keting' state!

After travelling 620km on various types of road with different styles of driving the car consumed 44liters [3/4 tank] of Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra averaging 7liter/100km.
Balance 1/4 tank. Already topped up and ready for Day3 600km-return trip.

Day 3: June 6th 2011
Sector 5 - Non Stop Return Trip. Had to detour towards Kuala Berang before joining ECE due to heavy traffics on the way to Kuala Trengganu. Skipped passing over or stop at major towns. Reduced traveling distance from 620km to approx 590km.

40% Hi-ways [above 100km/hr] , 50% Trunk Roads [80~100km/hr] , 10% other roads [below 80km/hr]

Fuel left after 589km drive...

The over all fuel consumption for the 1209km journey was 84 liter [around RM160 @RM1.90/liter] of Petronas Primax 95 Xtra [PP95X].

________________________

The 225/45/17 CSC3 tyres had been abused at the end of their life at some points of this journey...

The 308 remains as the only C-Segment Car in my garage

2011-05-22T10:35:00.008+08:00

Looks like this trouble free C-Segment Hatch is going to stay longer than expected... [already grounded all Peugeot 40-Series]
The 308 looks outdated now when compared to a freshly baked hatch from a not so popular European marque though...
Meanwhile, for me it is no longer an urgent need for a coupe' at the moment. Instead, looking forwards to replace the old D-Segment family coach, ... or just get a little battery-powered or hybrid A-Segment city-car to complete the fleet of A, B, C and D-segment collection in my garage.

Which Coupe' around RM225,000 can buy?

2011-05-20T07:11:00.009+08:00

Affordability is not an issue here but more on willingness to spend. For those who are ready/willing to spend nearly a quarter million ringgit on a coupe shouldn't be talking on fuel consumptions, maintenance cost, resale value and whats not anymore...

Only if I'm willing to spend approximately RM225k, honestly I would prefer to buy one of the following preregistered coupe's...

y2008 Audi TT 2.0 Turbo

y2008 Mercedes Benz SLK 200kompressor

y2007 BMW Z4 2.5

y2005 BMW 645 Ci

Overlooked Hi-Performance Tyres

2011-05-19T11:32:00.021+08:00

It is our common belief which had been 'inherited' for generations that imported tyres, especially from Europe and Japan are superior when compared to 'made-in-Asia' donuts.

For instance there are cheaper regional made tyres which are as good if not better than European equivalents for local weather and road condition. My first experience was using a set of made in Indonesia rubber compound on my 206B. To my surprise they are very comfortable and quiet without loosing grips especially on wet.

Now it is about time to replace those rubber donuts on my 308T. The original European made CSC3 225/45/17 tyres cost more than RM3000.00 per set!. There are cheaper European/Japanese made tyre which cost around RM2000++ per set as well. Majority of the 308T owners opt for these tyres instead.

There are also low-cost hi-performance tyres made in Korea and Taiwan which cost less than 50% of the price quoted for CSC3. Tread patterns look aggressive with four generous longkangs. Why not give a try.

What about locally made hi-performance tyres?
These are all-weather high-performance 'forgotten tyres' with an attractive uni-directional tread design and circumferential grooves for superior wet weather handling.The manufacturer claims what makes these tyres unique is their exceptional performance in the wet. There are also three different tread compounds onto a single tyre -creating a balance of comfort, water dispersion and cornering stability.

Probably I may give a try. These tyres cost less than 40% of the CSC3!

RCZ from RM165.000?

2011-05-15T19:54:00.005+08:00

Nasim Sdn Bhd, the official distributor of the Peugeot brand in Malaysia, will launch the Peugeot RCZ coupe next week. Nasim CEO said he was confident that the RCZ, which would enter the niche premium coupe segment in the market, would be well received.

The RCZ was voted the most beautiful car of the year at the 25th International Automobile Festival. The RCZ, which is a 2+2 coupe, would be available from Nasim in both automatic and manual transmissions mated to a powerful twin-scroll turbocharged engine.

The RCZ is the second of three models to be launched by Nasim this year and will be part of a roadshow at the Bangsar Shopping Centre from May 20 to May 22.

Believe it or not, you can now buy your own RCZ from RM165.000 and get them within two weeks even before Peugeot RCZ is officially launched in Malaysia. What you need is to pay full amount once you have confirmed. Pls take note: the cars are LHD only.

I've already got mine...

my RCZ

Anybody interested? click HERE for more info and learn how to order right away!. Get ém while they're hot!!!

New Record High for RON97

2011-05-05T11:04:00.003+08:00

The price of RON97 petrol has increased by 20 sen to RM2.90 per litre from today. That means those 308 owners who live on RON97 will have to fork out RM60 more every full tank than most ppl pay on RON95.

Malaysian Petrol Dealers Association president Datuk Hashim Othman said on Wednesday, May 5th. 2011:

"The price of RON97 fluctuates as the Government has lifted the subsidy for this petrol...The price of RON97 [however]might go down in future, but this depends on the political situation in the Middle East as well as natural disasters"

Previously, the Petroleum Dealers Association of Malaysia Deputy President, Datuk Zulkifli Mokti said the increase was due to the rise in the price of crude oil in the global market.

The price of RON97, which was floated according to the prevailing oil market price due to the crisis in the Middle East.

RON95 petrol remains at RM1.90 per litre. Legaaa.... been using RON95 ever since!

Pre-40,000 km DIY Inspection [cont.]

2011-05-02T08:00:00.029+08:00

My 308 had just clocked almost 40,000km and due for periodic maintenance. Today is a public holiday and is another fine day for DIY mechanical inspection prior to sending the 26-month old 308 [OTR] to my favorite SC.

Will not elaborate further. Click HERE for similar kinda of works I did before. For record, latest photos will be posted here later ... This afternoon gonna renew insurance/roadtax.

update: Insured the car for RM80k only. The premium was RM1400++, roadtax RM90.

Tyre and Brakepad Consumptions
Main contributions to tyre and brakepad consumptions are the same as what are actually effect fuel consumption - i.e who drive where, when and how....

I drive my 308 mainly for long distances covering at least 600km return trip. Sometimes up to 2000km covering highways, trunk roads as well as state roads. Normally I drive between midnite and before sunrise. Hence the consumptions are much less than the average.

After nearly 40,000km - front brakepad had gone 6.6mm and tyre tread reduced by almost 5mm.

Consumptions:
Bosch friction pads [front]: about 1mm for every 6000km
CSC3 treads: about 1mm for every 8000km

See how to remove front brakepads

About Car Battery...

2011-05-01T18:12:00.010+08:00

Routine inspection prior to getting back the car on road....
The EP6DT engine could be started at just one crank. The battery is still strong even though it was replaced more than a year ago and left idle for almost two months.

The battery needs 'boost charge' to bring back its full capacity and prolong life though.... Just bought a 6A 12V charger from eBay recently.

Understanding Battery Voltage and Alternator [or Charging] Voltage
To prevent hardship/frustration when the car battery is dead it is important to always know signs before the battery fails by making sure whether it can hold its charge and the alternator is capable of charging the battery.

A battery can hold its charge when the terminal voltage is maintained at least 12.63V [or 2.105V per cell] after the engine is switched off overnight or more than 12hrs. The alternator is OK and capable to charge the battery if the measured battery terminal voltage during engine running is within 13.5V~14.0V. Some old books suggest 13.2V~14.5V.

Quite some figures to remember, don't they? ...well, even though my nature of work is dealing with voltages and amperes I admit at times I don't remember the exact figures and always say nominal battery voltage is around 12.5V and the charging voltage should be around 14V and I don't carry with me a multimeter all the time - worse still, I have to open up the bonnet every time to take measuremen ts.

Fortunately there is a simple but practical device which can be plugged into any cigarette lighter socket to monitor battery and alternator condition and you don't even need to have a degree in electrical/electronic to do the analysis. It is a device which can be bought around RM15 at most supermarkets...

A simple but practical car battery analyzer

At SC they use a battery tester with a very low-resistance dummy load to test how much current the battery can put out. The 'low-resistance' load test will determine whether there is a high internal resistance as a result of sulfation, etc.. took place inside the battery. The SC will make recommendation whether the battery needs replacement.

See how to remove the battery

I'm back now...

2011-04-28T10:50:00.009+08:00

It has already been almost two months my 308 didn't move. Before getting the car back on road, first thing to do is to renew insurance & road tax and do some minor maintenance.

The car is already 26months OTR. This time around I'll insure the car for RM85k only. Based on insurance calculator, the premium will be RM1,501.97 [@38.3% NCD] .....

Some of the items for 308 I bought at eBay to date:
12v 6A car battery charger
Hi-power 1157 DRL LED
Peugeot Ori F/Brakepads [set of 4]
F/Wiper Blades [set of 2]
Peugeot Sport decal
R/Wiper Blade
Splash Guard Clips [10pcs]
Tyre valve caps [set of 4]
Alloy Wheel Center Caps [set of 4]
Brake Piston Reset Tool
Wheel Bolt Caps - 19mm [20pcs].....
.... yes indeed, I need 19mm bolt caps. Now my 308 uses 19mm instead of std 17mm wheel bolts.

Will update this blog in early May 2011. Thanks for visiting.

Adios! [not goodbye...]

2011-03-04T08:23:00.007+08:00

On Feb 28th, 2011 my308 celebrated its 2nd yr anniversary [OTR]. The car remains in its original condition until then, except for body kits [w/o diffuser], projector HID lights and wheel spacers were added.

The car had clocked almost 40,000km. Apart from regular maintenance and the infamous battery failure [didn't fail actually but offered to be replaced foc just before the warranty was over] - tyres, brake disc/pads, spark plugs, air filters, etc. still remain intact!

Will not going to drive this car for a month or two....probably shall be back at the end of April or in early May 2011.

Thanks for visiting
-uncle.D-

Spaced Out...

2011-03-03T09:38:00.008+08:00

Wheel Spacers move the tyre patch outwards, hence increase in track width. The maximum wheel spacer thickness is determined by "Measure Gap" as shown below.

Due to the slightly longer lever on which the wheel now acts upon the front spring, the suspension has become a bit softer, makes the suspension and the aging/hardened 45-series rubber a bit more sensitive and irons out small bumps that would otherwise come through unfiltered. The 'softness' does not apply to the trailing arm rear suspension.

Not sure about the handling though. I fitted the spacers while the stock tyres, CSC3 were still on the car and the car did seem to be a little more sure-footed. Steering response has not suffered, but hasn't improved either.

Experts say: "Should improve cornering stability at the expense of wheel bearings!"

But I do like how it looks!!!

Front and rear track widths were increased by 38mm (19mm or 3/4" on each side)!

Without wheel-spacers....

First 2-yr Expenses. Almost RM3k pm!

2011-01-06T13:11:00.028+08:00

Probably at 10,000km, 20,000km or 30,000km most of us spent around RM300 ++ for the oil, filter cart, etc.. when we sent our 308T to the SC for normal scheduled services. It seems that the maintenance cost is relatively low.

As the 2nd anniversary is just around the corner and at the same time the odometer is approaching 40,000km, it is the time to imagine and get the feeling of how much it really cost$ to keep a lion [or any other car in the same category] in a long run.

At this time around we are going to cut a big hole in our pocket for...
1. Normal maintenance for every 10,000km
2. Replacement of spark plugs, coolant, brake fluid, wiper blades, etc...
3. Brake Disk skimming and Replacement of Brake pads
4. Replacement of tyres
5. Renewal of insurance and road tax [and pay traffic summons if any]
6. Others as deem necessary

All in all, after 2yrs the following table suggests the figure will look like more or less for a 308 Turbo....

It is around RM2,800.00 per month is required on average for the first 2 years! If you can get away with the accessories, you will still need more than RM2.5k pm to keep the lion alive. About the same [i.e tak banyak lari] frm my estimate almost 2 yrs ago. Only if u got it for free, you only need less than RM1k pm [on avg] to feed and groom the lion... and that 's excluding 'hospital' bills when the lion got sick.

If anyone of u want to get rid of the lion, it is best to do it before 2nd yr anniversary or clocking 40,000km whichever comes first. U may save at least RM4~5k .

Happy Motoring....but don't let the lion ngap u!

Post 30,000km Inspection, before leaving again....

2010-12-26T13:58:00.034+08:00

Before leaving I normally spent almost a half day to clean/tidy up everything I left at home, including cars...

I did inspect undercarriage as well....

... and found no traces of oil leak anywhere of any kind even after almost two years of abuse. To date AHW308 is free from infamous oil leak.

So far already three counts of oil change, every time filled up 4.25 liter after draining and the filter cart replaced- it is not true filling more than 3.7 liter will make oil seeps out. Probably the first batch [CBU species] which needs 4.25 liter of oil is different from the later batches...
Original CSC3 225/45 R17 tyre condition after 35,000km... makan evenly and never need balancing since day 1. Probably will last beyond 40,000km!

HAPPY NEW YEAR 1.1.11 everybody.

"Will be back....!"

DTUKship for under RM2k?

2010-12-22T20:21:00.004+08:00

Believe it or not a few of our 308 fellas got DTUK for under RM2000! I've got no comment but u can find out for urselves what sort of DTUK our friends got. Click HERE.

Projector Lenses

2010-12-19T11:16:00.057+08:00

Updated - Dec 22, 2010
Peugeot 308 H7 Halogen lights are bright enough for normal driving but still not sufficient for high speed driving at night [worse still if it rains]. At first I replaced them with NightBreaker bulbs but still not good enough ...

Then I installed HID Xenon kit [color temp 4300K] at the end of Q1 this year. Very bright but the parabolic reflectors were actually not designed for HID use.
As a result there were too much glare for the comfort and safety of drivers coming in the opposite direction. I was thinking to find a solution then...

I learned that a pair of Projector Lenses were required to be placed in front of the super bright HID tubes to correctly focus the scattered beams hence reduce glare and improve light distribution.
Just installed a set of 3" Projector Glasses [lenses] for the H7 HIDs.

Projected light beams on the wall...
Now no more glare to the incoming vehicle drivers...Circular Cold Cathode Fluorescence Lights [CCFL] tubes were also installed c/w inverters.
The CCFL side lights [angel eyes] look really cool.The installation wasn't easy. Even the expert hands took almost 10hrs to do. Never try do it yourself if you are not patience enough. Thanks Desmond Lim for your patience and passion. Very good job done indeed.

The 'E46' Projector Lens is 3" in diameter - not exactly 'ngam'. Probably 3.5" glass would be better but couldn't find locally [yet] .

After the installation, final beam realignments [horizontal and vertical] were required. Click HERE if u want 2 c how 2 do it.

Even though projector lenses cut out glare significantly, beam height still needs adjustment to avoid causing a nuisance to other road users. The manual headlight height adjuster is located to the right below steering column.

From lowest to highest...
_
_
Note: Beams are not sharply focused though. Some evidence of penumbrae exist. Since those lenses are not multi-coated there are some fringing too.

Projector-HID on the road...

What Makes Car to Accelerate? Torque or Horse Power

2010-12-16T08:34:00.009+08:00

Any wild answer? BTW my answer is simple... 'torque' makes you a winner and 'horse power' makes you a buyer. Think for a moment or read my previous post. I'll be right back.

ECU Reprogramming

2010-12-13T12:09:00.020+08:00

During those good 'ol days, when cars like Alfa Romeo Giulia, Datsun SSS, Fiat 124ST, etc.. ruled the streets I was still a teenager in a technical secondary school. After graduation from tertiary education I only could afford a 'poor man's Alfa Romeo'.

The only inputs to alter engine performance at that time was a mechanical actuator based on centrifugal force in the distributor which advances ignition timing as the engine RPM increases and a vacuum actuator to retard ignition timing when the accelerator pedal was released.

My first Honda [poor man's Alfa-Romeo] - yr 1979 stratified charged 1.5 liter 12v Civic (sold 1n 1983)

Improper ignition timing would induce 'explosion' or/and 'knocking'. A krypton timing light was normally used to correctly set ignition timing. Sometimes a few more degrees offset from the 'correct setting' to advance or retard sesedap rasa. Spark plug and contact point gaps were also adjusted by trial & error to squeeze out every fraction of bhp. For those who were willing to spend more gallons per mile invested on Weber carburetors.

Then around 1980's electronic ignition was introduced in this country for car engines to vary the timing to a greater degree than a fixed ratio advance curve.

My 2nd Honda [poor man's BMW] - yr 1983 has electronic ignition (sold in 1994)

A complete 'map of variables' was entered into the ignition program and preset timing would be read from a table. Later with the advent of modern technology and introduction of programmed fuel injection, cars have been made smart and their performance tuning has been made even simpler.

My first car with programmed fuel injection engine...yr1994 (well kept and still running)

Today engine tuning can be performed via microprocessors or computers. Car engines can be made more efficient, producing more torque [and power] and become economical as well as far as fuel consumption is concerned. This all results can be achieved by reprogramming car's ECU or 'firmware upgrading' or whatever terms you may call it.

My 5th Peugeot - yr 2008 308T , my first attempt on Turbo Car ....

Now air temperature, engine speed, engine load and even control over turbo waste gate control means that precise management of the engine ignition timing is possible and the optimum output throughout the rev range can be achieved.

What is ECU reprogramming
Different car's performance parameters are now judged by sensors embedded at various places in the car. These parameters may include ignition timing, fuel consumption, air flow, throttle position, crank position e.t.c.

All these are closely monitored via sensors and their performance reports are send to car's engine management system or electronic control unit (ECU). So ECU basically is a software program which process the signals send by the sensors and helps in better performance of the car in any given condition.

Why need ECU reprogramming?
Of course for better engine performance...
The car manufacturers do not always tailor make their ECU settings at optimum performance level. It may sound ironic or weird for all car enthusiasts but its a fact. The logic behind it is that the production cars are also aimed for all the end users and make sure that their product is well enough for almost every condition.

ECU reprogramming can be done by just overwriting the existing program and replacing it with a more tuned software to fit for purpose. Previously was done by removing the existing chip containing the software with a 'super chip' . Today, it has been made easy after the advent of serial port reprogramming, and now ECU reprogramming can be performed by just plugging and overwriting engine map by a better 'firmware'.

Reprogramming ECU can be a simple performance upgrading by pro-tuners but it may become complicated to some tuners who are not aware of the car's specification including transmission and would end up in creating a mess because they do not pay consideration on 'how the car engine is going to behave' under endurance.

ECU reprogramming may have some fuel implications if you want to squeeze out every remaining pony available. However 308T car can be tuned to an optimum level, a compromise to save fuel and raise the torque as well. It is believed to achieve an increase of around 30% in max torque... but how the torque curve is going to be is another story.

Why wouldn't I go for ECU firmware upgrade yet?
The answer is ... "still analyzing a few options available..."

Stage 1 Tuning

2010-12-11T16:39:00.019+08:00

Stage 1 Tuning is something that just about every 308Turbo owner wants do sooner or later. But what is it?

Typical Stage 1 Tuning Kit*

It is supposed to be the first stage of bringing a standard production model to life. A standard 308Turbo is restricted by the regulations in terms of its performance and also in the emissions (exhaust gases) that it gives out. These regulations are enforceable by laws and standards in the country of 308 origin... probably not applicable else where, and of course in Malaysia, boleh... so some people believe stage 1 tuning brings the car back to the performance it was designed for.

Just surf the internet and u can easily find what stage 1 tuning is all about - but don't get poisoned too fast and never over do and mix up with stage 2 and stage 3 modifications without really understand how your car is going to perform .

Click HERE for more info on tuning stages.
____________________________________________________
*Not all kits are useful for 308Turbo. Read MOTORING MYTHs and TUNING MYTHs and FACTs.

What Engine Tuners Don't Tell You

2010-12-11T05:35:00.032+08:00

PART 1

First and foremost let me define...
An Engine Tuner is a person who does the adjustment, modification, addition and alteration to the internal combustion engine components (software or/and hardware)to alter its performance, to change the engine output characteristic (torque curve vs rpm, hence horsepower), fuel economy, durability (or any combination of those).

It is a norm for any engine tuner to tell you what will be the expected improvement in maximum torque and maximum horse power after the what so called tuning is done for your car engine. Probably you believe it after taking a short spin when your car had been successfully tuned...

You are so happy when a gentle tap is applied on the accelerator pedal the car seems to be flying... and you tell the whole world without knowing your car engine will be out of breath before reaching the new record breaking top speed.... then you became frustrated!

For instance, an n.a diesel engine car also behaves like that. A diesel engine of the same capacity even has higher maximum torque than petrol powered engine. But how come a car powered by n.a diesel engine is so sluggish in century acceleration and 400m standing? However, a turbo diesel engine has a totally different story.

Now, there are something that some engine tuners don't tell you. While a few are pro enough letting you know some..., if not all. I'm not paid to make any recommendation but you will be able to decide what's not and where not to go to tune-up your car.

Before I proceed, probably you need to refer back to your old school book to find out the relationship between TORQUE, RPM and HORSE POWER then come back. I'll wait.
__________________________________________________

PART 2

Most people are confused about the relationship between POWER and TORQUE. We often heard engine tuners ask customers:

"U mau improve HORSEPOWER atau TORQUE aah?" in a tone which strongly suggests that these 'experts' believe power and torque are somehow mutually exclusive.

In fact, the opposite is true, and you should be clear on these facts:

Horsepower is dependent on TORQUE and RPM. Torque and RPM are the MEASURED quantities while HORSEPOWER is CALCULATED from the product of torque, RPM and a constant figure. For time being forget about the 'constant figure' . What you should know now is:

HORSEPOWER is proportional to TORQUE x RPM inclusively (but the horsepower is not necessarily proportional to torque or rpm exclusively)

Remember that, torque and horse power do not work together. Horse power is a result of the the torque applied at specified rpm.

Got this? Good. Now think for a moment... what makes a car to accelerate? Torque or Horsepower?

__________________________________________________

PART 3

In my studies I categorize torque curves in three difference types. Each type has its own application, one of them may suit ur driving style. I'll explain later.

The following are different type of torque vs rpm charts and the calculated horsepower in p.u values. (Taking maximum torque and horsepower as 100%).

Type 1: Low-Rev (narrow) Power Band

Type 2: Mid Range (wide) Power Band

Type 3: Hi-rev (narrow) Power Band

BTW, our Peugeot 308Turbo torque is Type 2 . Relatively wide power band at moderate engine rpm. AL4 transmission is good enough. In tiptronic mode, in 3rd gear the car can accelerate aggressively from 70km/hr to 145km/hr and still has enough torque to ultimately reach 160km/hr w/o shifting up. On 4th it can pull away easily from cucukers behind you from 90km/hr to 190km/hr before the engine is out of breath and lifeless after touching a few km/hr above 200.

Pls take note... even though some n.a cars with bigger engine capacity which accelerate at slower pace below 190km/hr still be able to accelerate all the way beyond our stock 308 top speed... don't play play with them above 190km/hr... unless we tune up our car in such a way the torque curve is extended further into the redline, hence increasing maximum horse power!

You need a suitable tuning kit and remapping... w/o even increasing maximum torque too much. The key word is EXTENDING the useful torque curve further into the red zone!

Ada tuner boleh bikin ini macam kaa?

__________________________________________________

PART 4
When a close-ratio or 6- or 7-speed transmission needed?

A car having six-speed and even seven-speed transmission can not be legitimately called "close-ratio" for performance driving. Probably it is not better than a car equipped with a standard 4- or 5-speed. It actually has extra high overdrive gears for leisure and economic hi-way cruising.

However if it keeps the top gear ratio about the same as in a comparable 4- or 5-speed transmission, and rather distributes more closely spaced ratios among the lower gears, then YES it has a 'closer-ratio' transmissions so to speak.

For instance a 5-speed transmission can be a close ratio too as shown below:
... the 5-speed stock transmission is actually a 4-speed with an over drive.

When do u need a close-ratio transmission?
The answer is when you got dyno chart as shown in Type 1 and Type 3 in PART 3 where power band is relatively narrow.

What is the significant of Type1 and Type 3 and where to use?
Ask you tuner for the answers.

So do not simply upgrade and lanyak ur car w/o knowing how it is going to perform and whether the power band ngam or not with the existing transmission . Otherwise u will be a born looser even before the red lights are off....

'HAPPY MOTORING'

How to Cool a Hotspot?

2010-12-03T04:30:00.029+08:00

If u own a 308, most likely u also have a 3G smartphone (or more) with Wi-Fi and...

Probably u might have already been using it as a Wi-Fi hotspot for connecting ur Wi-Fi enabled devices to the Internet. If u haven't done so for not knowing ur smartphone capability take a look HERE, no one is peeping, hee....heeeee

There is one problem though. The hotspot can be extremely hot. The heat generated can damage ur precious device during extended use. But don't worry and u don't have to place it in refrigerated glovebox or somewhere out of ur sight. U can make it freezing cold and at the same time u may place it at a strategic location on ur 308 dashboard for normal use too, such as for gps navigation.....

All u need is a smartphone holder that can be fixed onto ur middle aircond vent....
...which u can buy @pasarmalam for +-RM10.00, u may also need an in-car charger because when u turn on the smartphone as a Hotspot and worst still u turn on the gps navigation at the same time, the bugger eats up lots of battery charge, just like ur 308T's do, hu huu..

Now u can have a cool hotspot in ur 308 to make ur passangers or urselves [if u r x drivin' la] enjoy the long trip with iPod Touch, iPad or any other tablets that do not have 3G.If ur rear pasengers are addicted to podcasts they can download and play their favorites on iDevice which can be attached on the back of the front seat...
... and of course I like watching IRC too whenever I'm in the backseat....
So, if u wanna buy an iPhone... think again because u can buy much lower-cost iPod Touch or even an iPad [or BOTH, he heeee] at a fraction of the price, and u do not have to get rid of your old faithful 3G SmartPhones.

Peugeot RCz or VW Scirocco TSi?

2010-11-25T11:08:00.038+08:00

As the number of my family members who stay with me has reduced from 6 to 3 [a wife, an 11-yr old daughter and myself] and is expected to stay that way for another 10 yrs or so - I'm now looking for a 'smaller' car to celebrate a life after early retirement next year... preferably a conti-coupe. Sorry for not being a fan of Jap/Korean cars. I'm x willing to pay for more than RM200k though.

So, the only car to consider at the moment is either Peugeot RCz 1.6 THP156 or Scirocco 1.4 TSi.
Both cars are believed to have the same performance [and pricing?], but the former has more 'wow factor' amongst Peugeot enthusiasts like myself. I'm in dilemma actually.

The following are some figures to compare...

	VW Scirocco 1.4 Tsi	Peugeot RCZ 1.6 THP156

Gearbox :	manual 7 gear	manual 6 gear

Power:	160 PS [156bhp]	156 bhp
Torque:	240 Nm	240 Nm
Weight/Power ratio:	8.77 kg/PS¹	8.94 kg/PS¹


Top Speed claimed :	218 km/h	217 km/h
0 to 100 km/h claimed:	8 s.	8 s.

Performances ^[tested]*
Max Real Speed:	218 Km/h	215 Km/h
400m:	16 s.	16.6 s.
1000m:	28.9 s.	29.9 s.
0 to 100:	7.9 s.	8.4 s.
0 to 160:	19.2 s.	24 s.

80 to 120 min :	4.9 s.	5.8 s.
80 to 120 in 4 :	7.6 s.	7.5 s.
80 to 120 in 5:	9.3 s.	9.7 s.
80 to 120 in 6:	11.1 s.	12.6 s.
80 to 180 min:	19.7 s.	24.2 s.

50 to 0:	9.6 m.	10 m.
90 to 0:	30.8 m.	32 m.
130 to 0:	62.9 m.	66 m.

For instance VW Scirocco 1.4 TSi is already available on Malayan soil today - otr price is around RM190k. Click HERE.

Not sure whether Nasim/Naza will bring in any entry level RCz ...
A few months ago somebody @ Nasim Marketing office hinted that only limited number of high end RCz [200hp?] will be brought in . Probably Nassim had learned a lesson from 308GT.

As far as the Scirocco is concerned, the only slack is the rear end ...
... which look very much outdated like an old Satria... yucks! The new Satria Neo backside is much more attractive even though from the side the low-cost hatch looks like a shoe.

On the other hand, probably the RCz butt is one of [if not] the best looking in the world!

Will be back...

2010-11-20T05:11:00.012+08:00

I'm still alive and active but pls accept my apology for not be able to update this blog often. Lately I'm too busy la. I'll be back after my car is 2 yrs otr or has clocked 40,000km wecf...

The car has just clocked 33,000km after being abused for 20 months. Apart from the battery, no other part has been replaced as yet. Looks like tyres and brake pads will last as long as the spark plugs.... i.e beyond 40,000km.

Tyre condition after 33,000km of abuse

The reason for the extended km is because I drive the car mostly for long distances... unlike those who drive in cities who spend more time on brake pedals than the accelerator...

I'm happy with the car. Probably I'm just lucky to own one of the least problematic 308Turbo on Malayan soil to date...

Thanks again for visiting.

Cleaning Car Has Never Been This Easy

2010-10-02T17:08:00.018+08:00

Not everyone worries too much аbοut how clean his car іѕ while there аrе others that аrе obsessed with the state οf their ride. Probably there are also people who spend a lot of money to keep their cars in tip-top mechanical condition and even having them cleaned and detailed аt high priced car care places.

There are also who wаnt tο DIY with proper equipment - what u need is a water high-pressure cleaner. A set of portable ramps can also be useful...
At 120bar [1680psi] couple with rotating and pulsing dirt blaster head cleaning cars has never been this easy - especially at those dirtiest corners such as tyres, wheels, brake callipers, wheel_arch, undercarriage, etc...

Tyre, wheel and brake calliper: before and after high-pressure cleaning

Just spray and wipe-to-dry. The result...
... sparkling clean in just a few minutes.

OMG! I Need RM10,000 for my 308T!!

2010-09-30T16:04:00.012+08:00

I had just spent RM400+ on the 30,000th km service and that was nothing...

It has been estimated that for the next service @ 40,000th km [after 2yrs] I need around RM10,000 to keep the 308T running. Nothing wrong with my car actually but Believe it or not?

At 40,000th km the car needs...
1. Normal service ... RM400.oo+
2. Replacement of tyres, brake pads/disks, s/plugs, brake fluid, coolant, etc...... around RM3500.oo
3. Road_tax & Insurance .... around RM2000.oo
4. To pay saman e-koq .... RM2100.oo
5. 'Firmware update'... say, RM2000.oo+

Total RM10,000.oo++

Kenape... tak percayier?

30,000th km Service

2010-09-26T21:11:00.019+08:00

AHW308 has done almost 30,000km and ready for the scheduled service/maintenance. Will be sending to regular SC on Monday Sept 27th. As usual I will BMO oil and my choice is Mobil-1 Gold*. This time got FREE umbrella [or Lap-top bag]...
[*Mobil-1 Gold 0w-40 membuat enjin terasa lebih mantap dan solid pada red-line berbanding pelincir 0w-30, 5w-30 dan 10w-30]

Pre-Service Inspection
As usual I did my own inspection prior to sending the car for servicing.

Tyres:
New tyre thread depth = 8mm
Average remaining thread depth is 4.175mm
so, sudah makan 3.825mm/30,000km or 1.275mm/10,000km.

If wear limit is 2mm, the remaining usable thread is 2.175mm, i.e lasts another (2.175/1.275)* 10,000km = about 17,000km (making CSC3 tyres to last beyond 45,000km)

Brake Pads:
Front Bakepads sudah makan about 2/3. May require replacement during next service @ 40,000th km. Rear brakepads only gone 50%

click HERE for my typical pre-service inspection.

The 1.5yrs old car. Just done 30,000km.

updated on Sept 27th
Expenses:
Mobil-1 'Gold' : RM245.00
Oil Filter: RM41.00
Drain Plug Washer : RM3.60
Plastic Rivets [for mud-guards - 2nos.] RM3.00
Labour Charge including 'special request' : RM112.00
Service tax: RM5.60
TOTAL maintenance @30,000km: RM410.20

How to avoid saman E-k0q?

2010-09-21T11:31:00.010+08:00

Traffic speedtrap/red_light cameras can be tricky and very annoying. They don't prevent infractions and sometimes are misleading and you end up being charged hundreds if not thousand of ringgit for driving only a couple of km over the unreasonable SLOW speed limit such as 70km/hr around school zone at NIGHT where there is no school children around! 75% of the saman E-k0q's I got are around 70km/hr zone between midnight and 5am while driving around Bentong and Raub on my monthly trips to Kelantan.

Fortunately there are several ways to protect ourselves from kena saman E-koq. These product are proven overseas to be effective. Please be advised that the 'thing' may have legal restrictions here in Malaysia. Use on your own risk.

Special formula cover incorporates a thin diffusional lens designed to protect you from unjust saman E-k0q is now avaialble. The design claims to be effective, inconspicuous, and successful against all types of traffic cameras.

We buy 308 Turbo on purpose
Right, no? No matter how safe-driving style we practice sooner or later we will receive a reminder letter or two in white envelope. If u don't, accept it or not 308Turbo is not for you. You are buying the wrong car for the right reason. Period.

If you've been "shot", you've been got! But fortunately there is a 'thing' now available designed to diffuse the infrared laser beam.

How do laser guns work?
Laser guns work by emitting a laser beam which is bounced off a flat, reflective surface on your vehicle. Your registration no. plate is the preferred area of the vehicle that a laser is pointed against by the enforcement authority. Most conventional laser detectors are ineffective. Even if you do detect the beam, its too late. You're caught!

How does the 'thing' work?
This specially designed cover works to absorb and diffuse the incoming laser beam. This significantly shortens the effective distance of laser guns.
Avoid a costly saman E-k0q!

ECU re-mapping vs Piggyback

2010-09-18T23:18:00.032+08:00

So much discussions and friendly arguments found in auto forums on the subject already. For me, I would advice to choose the former because... amongst others ECU remap disables speed limiter and increase rev limit, piggy-backs don't. Simple.

Technically, I don't see how these add-on "chips" can be as good as a remap. As far as I know some piggyback [if not all] just fool the injectors into over-fueling the engine. Might increase performance, but can't be good for the engine in a long run - i.e they are at the cost of high emissions, higher engine temperatures, and general abuse of the engine. This may result in poor running, black smoke emitting from the exhaust, clogged injectors, rough idle, and engine cut-out... and could be one of the reasons for the infamous De-pollution Sensor Fault!

I read somewhere that most of these 'boxes' are just plastic boxes with resistors. The impedance fools the ECU [to make it think the engine is cold] to inject more fuel hence richer fuel-air mixture....not sure about pee-Tronique though.

Remap FAQ....

Power gain?
Petrol (Turbo) 20% to 50%
Non Turbo 10%-15%

How long does it take?
Normally 2 to 4 hrs

Any warranty issue?
Don't worry. Remap is undetectable by the dealer’s diagnostic equipment. Therefore, unless you tell them it has been done, they will not be aware of the change.

What about fuel consumption after remaping?
In most cases fuel consumption will be improved by up to 10% wrt to the same driving style. Nevertheless fuel consumption definitely will increase if the driver becomes addicted with the improved performance...

Will the remap affect the life of my engine.
The remap does not in any way affect the life expectancy of the engine. The way you drive and maintain your car will.

Do I need to do further modifications?
No other modifications are required as long as the extra load on the engine and transmission falls within safe margins. Some ppl recommend to install a high performance air filter as this allows the engine to breathe more effectively. This will ensure you maintain the maximum performance. A full exhaust system upgrade can also be beneficial.

Will remap affect car insurance?
The tuning is very hard for any insurance company to detect; but as with all modifications, you should inform your insurance company.

What if I don't like the remap.
Some tuners offer if you are not completely satisfied with your remap within certain fixed period you will not be charged, and will return your car back to standard.

What if I want to sell my car?
If you decide to sell your car, you can either choose to sell it with the map, or you can have it reverted back to standard.

myNexT Car...?

2010-07-19T18:12:00.007+08:00

General Spec:
'Affordable' CONTINENTAL. Doesn't matter whether it is a 3-door or 5-door hatch but not too big - about the same size as the 206, but more powerful and agile than 206RC. A coupe' is not acceptable.

Engine size:
Of course not more than 1.6 liter but "down-sizing doesn’t mean down-grading...."

Performance:
Should be as good if not better than the RCZ - i.e century acceleration in less than 7.5s and tops over 225kph w/o any modification.

Price:
Less than the current price of 308GT. Hint. Hint.. Hint...

The Return of Peugeot 50-series

2010-07-13T12:17:00.016+08:00

The first Peugeot I'd owned was 5o5SR [M] and co-incidentally it was the last model of the 5o-series ever produced.

The 10-yr old car was sold in 1994 because I had to leave. Expected to get later model of the series something like 5o6 once I'd settled 'there'.

Today [after 15-yrs waiting] Peugeot comes out with the all new 5o8. The 5o8 would be the return of the 5o-series that hasn’t been seen since the 5o5. The long anticipated Peugeot 5o-series will not only fill the gap between 4o7 and 6o7 but will merge the 4o-series and 6o-series. Now say goodbye to 4o- and 6o-series ....

Peugeot 308T Performance Deteriorates Over Time?

2010-06-23T07:36:00.032+08:00

[updated on July 1st, 2010 on 400m standing test]

When I planned to buy another car in 2008/2009 my basic specs were:-

- costs less than RM150k
- should be able to accelerate from 0 to 100kph in less than 10sec.
- top speed beyond 200kph.
- must also have adequate safety features
- Continental car

The only cars shortlisted around that time were of course the New Peugeot 308T and a used W203. I opted for the former. Actually I was one of those who booked the 308T even before it was launched. Subsequently I canceled my booking on the used [2nd hand] 3-pointed star W203K to replace the old W124.

[308 vs C-class W203]

However over time, the performance seems to deteriorate slightly [based on butt-dyno]. I also asked for opinions from fellow 308T owners. As usual there were quick answers such as long term effect on RON95 and high viscosity oil that I used, etc...

I didn't jump into any conclusion as yet without technical proof, so I decided to carry out tests to verify. I did the sprint tests twice on the same road but on different days and at different time and the result ...

[click on the image to enlarge]

To my surprise, the car does not only maintain its performance but has improved in century acceleration timing. Now it takes between 9.0 to 9.1 seconds to sprint . For instance the car is still in its original condition and running on RON95 gasoline. Last year it took between 9.2 to 9.4 seconds! [click HERE]

[published data]

Peugeot 308T performance does not deteriorate as yet even after clocking 25,000km [only butt-dyno tells otherwise] . So does its performance on cheaper and lower RON rating fuel.

Next is standing test...

[click on the image to enlarge]

Comparing with last year's data the test shows that there is an improvement in 400m standing by 0.2 seconds down to 16.1 seconds.

Frequently visited pages:
Fuel Consumption

Performance

uncle's DIY
Car Size Comparison

Motoring Myths
RON95

Peugeot GTi Legacy Continues...

2010-06-10T15:27:00.010+08:00

Many of us know the history of Peugeot’s GTi badge and loved the hot hatches, especially the legendary 205. According to a news not so long ago, Peugeot Marketing Director Christian Stein said “For us, the GTi concept is dead. We will move away from hot hatches towards premium sports coupes [similar to RCZ].”

Fortunately we have a good news - the French manufacturer has decided to continue the GTi badge yet again - the company wants to build the all new Peugeot GTi - that could become Peugeot finest and real hot hatchback since the departure of the 205. Most likely the new hot hatch to be called 208GTi aimed at the British and German markets where hot hatches are very popular.

Peugeots want to be re-known for their “precision, allure, style, driver control and excellence” ...and very keen to reinvigorate the reputation it once had for handling and roadholding.
Most likely the 208 GTi will be powered by 200THP 1.6liter petrol engine, similar engine which power up the top of the line RCZ. The 208 is expected to be launched in 2012, and seems to be the first Peugeot to be entirely developed based on the SR1 sports concept.

Peugeot RCZ

2010-05-17T16:38:00.034+08:00

May 17th, 2010 - The Peugeot Germany team's "200 years" RCZ won the 38th Nürburgring 24 Hours inthe under-2L Diesel category.
To mark the launch of Peugeot RCZ , Peugeot took part in this event for the first time by placing two cars in the competition.
The RCZ took first and third place in the D1T category!

May 16th, 2010 - A Close Encounter of the 4th Kind
I was abducted by the RCZ. What a surprise the actual life size of the coupe'. In photographs it seems to be very small...
... it is actually a full scale 2+2! - even larger than BMW E86! In fact it shares platform with the 308 hatch and the new 3008 SUV. So it has a relatively long wheelbase for a coupé.
There is plenty of room up front...

there's even enough space in the rear to carry a couple of reasonably well-developed children...

... and anyone opening the tailgate expecting to find a boot which could barely carry a laptop computer is in for a shock...

the capacity back there is more than 350 litres and whopping 760 liters if the rear seats are folded down.

May 12th, 2010 - RCZ Coming Soon?
Just can't wait any longer....but at last Peugeot is interested in building a car seems to be worth driving. A new THP200 engine has been prepared exclusively for the top-of-the line RCZ.
Peugeot claims it will sprint to 100kph in 7secs, and with lowered, stiffened suspension and an all-new six-speed gearbox there is at least the on-paper promise of a driving experience that has been 'what I'd always wanted' but absent from other Peugeots including the 308!
First Drive: 2010 Peugeot RCZ at MOTORTREND

PEUGEOT is giving away one of its new RCZ coupes in an online competition that involves creating an advertisement for yourself on Facebook.
click HERE

read also:
My FINALwords on Peugeot 308 Turbo.

Final Words on Peugeot 308 Turbo

2010-04-30T07:17:00.002+08:00

How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard...

April 30th - Peugeot 308T is a '2-car-in-1'
After owning, driving and testing the car for more then a year and clocking just over 20Mm I can conclude that:

"The 308T can either be driven for performance or for fuel economy. NOT both at the same time tho'. "

Apart from high-speed stability [excellent!] the overall handling and comfort are acceptable but not up to any Peugeot standard character I've ever experienced before [2o4S, 5o5SR, 4o5GL, 4o5SRi, 4o5SR, 2o6B...] . Not even close to Peugeot 405 and 505. Peugeot/Bestari 206 is more agile than the 308. Peugeot 308 rear suspension still need refinement.

In general the car performs beyond the ordinary even though it is not up to a hot-hatch standard. Peugeot 308 can be described as a performance family hatch. Nothing more. Nothing less.

PERFORMANCE - Don't play play...

Wonder why Peugeot 308 tops the list for century acceleration?
Horse power isn’t actually what makes a car accelerate. It is the torque - which is the twisting force generated by an engine. Peugeot has 240Nm torque - the highest amongst cars in the list. For instance Mercedes E200k and BMW320i have only 221Nm and 200Nm respectively!

FUEL ECONOMY - UTM to UUM on less than one full tank
Left UTM @ Skudai around 10:00pm, drove 2+km to the nearest Petronas Stn to feed AHW308 with RON95 to the brim then drove north along PLUS to UUM near Chang-Lun. Only one 'pit-stop' at Behrang. The car was driven on AutoCruise around 95~115km/hr. Arrived at the destination just before sunrise. The remaining fuel was enough to drive for another 60km!
On-board computer tells the average fuel consumption was 6.6iter/100km for the 797km trip. The best average was 6.2liter/100km from JB to Sg Besi Toll Plaza - similar to previous economy drive. Read also RON97 vs RON95 and Wrong Tips on Fuel Saving.

click for
PREVIOUS POSTs

Frequently visited pages:
Fuel Consumption

Performance

uncle's DIY
Car Size Comparison

Motoring Myths
RON95

AHW308

Super Knocking!

OBD II "Tools" for EP6-DT* engines

"Final Drive"

Intermittent Power Loss - Your Turn Could be Next!

Brake bed-in Procedure

What Brake Bed-in is all about...

Taking a Brake...

One-Half Marathon

PCMSCAN

Garmin® ecoRoute™

Another 1500km Trip

How To Retrieve Trip Log from Garmin 2575R

OBD2 Datalogger

Depleted Fragrance Cartridge

Let the Lion Sleep for a while

Showing sign of bigger problems ahead?

Peugeot 508 - the most logical choice

2D1N at Banding

Nite Trip to Kelantan

Top Speed 224km/h

Highway Obstacles

Let's beat up the drum....

Seconds Before Disater

400m standing with new HPFP

The Ultimate Cree Q5 PROJECTOR LED for DRL 1157 bulb replacement

An old Horse in the eyes of a naughty Lion...

Had Fun with H/C 2.0

Cucuk Mat Rempit

Cheapo Onboard Solid State Video Cam

Which hatchback ?

Thinking of getting a new ride...

AHW E-Classic

Some of the VDOs caught with AHW308 onboard videocam.

Taking Fast Curve Tips

40,000km Service

Speeds in Different Gears

Fake Auto Parts Sdn Tanggung

Are Your Brembo Discs Genuine?

WARNING! Imitation Spark Plugs

Iridium Spark Plugs

Night Riders be Prepared...

Peugeot 308 Turbo - the first 40,000km Expenses

Happy Father's Day

Do All Peugeot 308 Have Negative Camber?

1157 LED for DRL?

ECU Remapping may Damage your Turbo if...

Fuel Saving Device - Anybody Interested?

Does anyone need a Voltage Stabilizer?

Lowest Fuel Consumption with Petronas PRIMAX 95 Xtra!

The 308 remains as the only C-Segment Car in my garage

Which Coupe' around RM225,000 can buy?

Overlooked Hi-Performance Tyres

RCZ from RM165.000?

New Record High for RON97

Pre-40,000 km DIY Inspection [cont.]

About Car Battery...

I'm back now...

Adios! [not goodbye...]

Spaced Out...

First 2-yr Expenses. Almost RM3k pm!

Post 30,000km Inspection, before leaving again....

DTUKship for under RM2k?

Projector Lenses

What Makes Car to Accelerate? Torque or Horse Power

ECU Reprogramming

Stage 1 Tuning

What Engine Tuners Don't Tell You

How to Cool a Hotspot?

Peugeot RCz or VW Scirocco TSi?

Performances [tested]*

Will be back...

Cleaning Car Has Never Been This Easy

OMG! I Need RM10,000 for my 308T!!

30,000th km Service

How to avoid saman E-k0q?

ECU re-mapping vs Piggyback

myNexT Car...?

The Return of Peugeot 50-series

Peugeot 308T Performance Deteriorates Over Time?

Performances ^[tested]*