Everybody wants to save fuel, but there're lots and lots of incorrect advices I found on local and international motorcar forums on how to do it. Some of 'em make no difference, and some even worse! Don't know from where they got those 'advices' - I'm sure not from their own experiment/experience. Some of the 'advices' defy the laws of physics [and thermodynamics].
The following are a bunch of wrong advices on tips for fuel saving.
1. Fill-up fuel tank in the morning
I have read/heard 1001 times that it's best to fill car fuel tank in the early morning while the fuel is cold by making assumption that fuel are more dense at lower temperatures, so a liter of cooler fuel actually has more hydrocarbon molecules than a liter of warmer gasoline.
The fact is: The fuel stored underground has a very large heat sink which temperature is almost constant throughout the day. By touching the fuel pump nozzle while filling up the fuel tank one will 'feel' the temperature - it is warmer than the ambient temperature, in the morning and cooler at midday/afternoon. You don't need a thermometer to measure it.
2. Change air filter often
Maintaining cars is important, but a clean air filter isn't going to save any fuel significantly. Modern engines have computer sensors that automatically adjust the fuel-air mixture as an increasingly clogged air filter chokes off the engine's air supply. Of course engine power will decrease slightly as the air filter becomes clogged, but an increase in fuel consumption will be negligible. It takes cost less than the new air filter. Here I'm talking on fuel saving - not performance ya.
As far as fuel saving is concerned, installing after market maintenance-free air-filters will do more harm than good [in a long run] to modern engines. Think a second, if it is good enough why not car producers install 'em in the first place? If u r talking on performance alone, just tune the car without the air filter!
3. Use premium or higher octane fuel
A lot of drivers think because their owners' manual recommends premium, they'll get better fuel economy and performance with it. In reality , they may be paying more money for nothing.
Most modern na cars have Programmed Fuel Injection System, for which premium is "recommended" - but not "required" - won't suffer with RON95 or lower octane rating fuel. Modern engine technology comes to the rescue again. When sensors detect regular instead of premium fuel, the system automatically adjusts spark plug [and valve] timing. The result is a slight reduction in peak horsepower - but we never notice.
Always check owner's manual before putting anything into your car. And if the car runs badly on RON95, by all means, go back to RON97, or Wee-Power or what_ever.
4. Pump up tires
Of course under-inflated tires are bad for handling and can even cause a crash. Improper tire inflation also causes tires to wear out faster and to heat up more, which could trigger a dangerous high-speed blow-out. Under inflated tires also reduce fuel economy.
So proper inflation is important.
But never over-inflate tires. They'll get slightly better fuel economy because there will be less tread touching the road, reducing friction. But that means less grip for braking and turning. The added risk of a crash isn't worth the extra km a liter gained.
The following are a bunch of wrong advices on tips for fuel saving.
1. Fill-up fuel tank in the morning
I have read/heard 1001 times that it's best to fill car fuel tank in the early morning while the fuel is cold by making assumption that fuel are more dense at lower temperatures, so a liter of cooler fuel actually has more hydrocarbon molecules than a liter of warmer gasoline.
The fact is: The fuel stored underground has a very large heat sink which temperature is almost constant throughout the day. By touching the fuel pump nozzle while filling up the fuel tank one will 'feel' the temperature - it is warmer than the ambient temperature, in the morning and cooler at midday/afternoon. You don't need a thermometer to measure it.
2. Change air filter often
Maintaining cars is important, but a clean air filter isn't going to save any fuel significantly. Modern engines have computer sensors that automatically adjust the fuel-air mixture as an increasingly clogged air filter chokes off the engine's air supply. Of course engine power will decrease slightly as the air filter becomes clogged, but an increase in fuel consumption will be negligible. It takes cost less than the new air filter. Here I'm talking on fuel saving - not performance ya.
As far as fuel saving is concerned, installing after market maintenance-free air-filters will do more harm than good [in a long run] to modern engines. Think a second, if it is good enough why not car producers install 'em in the first place? If u r talking on performance alone, just tune the car without the air filter!
3. Use premium or higher octane fuel
A lot of drivers think because their owners' manual recommends premium, they'll get better fuel economy and performance with it. In reality , they may be paying more money for nothing.
Most modern na cars have Programmed Fuel Injection System, for which premium is "recommended" - but not "required" - won't suffer with RON95 or lower octane rating fuel. Modern engine technology comes to the rescue again. When sensors detect regular instead of premium fuel, the system automatically adjusts spark plug [and valve] timing. The result is a slight reduction in peak horsepower - but we never notice.
Always check owner's manual before putting anything into your car. And if the car runs badly on RON95, by all means, go back to RON97, or Wee-Power or what_ever.
4. Pump up tires
Of course under-inflated tires are bad for handling and can even cause a crash. Improper tire inflation also causes tires to wear out faster and to heat up more, which could trigger a dangerous high-speed blow-out. Under inflated tires also reduce fuel economy.
So proper inflation is important.
But never over-inflate tires. They'll get slightly better fuel economy because there will be less tread touching the road, reducing friction. But that means less grip for braking and turning. The added risk of a crash isn't worth the extra km a liter gained.
5. Reduce or do not use aircond.
True, air-conditioning makes extra work for the engine, increasing fuel use. But car air conditioners are much more efficient today than they used to be. Using the aircond will drop fuel economy by about 2 to 3% - to figure out the saving by turning aircond off is gaining around 10km [under RM2] when one drive fom KL to KB but one will pay more on cold drinks!
Meanwhile, driving at higher speeds with the windows down greatly increases aerodynamic drag. As speed increases, drag becomes more of an issue, making air-cond use the more efficient choice at high speeds.
6. Install fuel saving gadget and/or use fuel booster
Before even thinking of a device that's supposed to make car more fuel-efficient ask yourself:
Don't you think oil and car companies aren't doing everything they can to beat their competitors?
Car/engine producers are already spending billions of Ringgit if not Dollars to increase fuel efficiency/mileage. If a car producer could make its cars go significantly farther on a liter simply by putting a device into the fuel line, don't think for a second it wouldn't be doing that. Its car sales also would go like goreng pisang panas.
Similarly, if there really was an additive that made fuel burn up more slowly, it would have been bought by major oil companies already and wouldn't be sold through direct selling over the Internet/SMS one bottle at a time. If Brand A fuel company could add something to its fuel that made cars go farther on a liter of fuel, cars would be lining up at the company's pumps and drive right past rivals' fuel stations to come back to Brand A for more. Brand A stations could even charge more for their gas and still can sell. Click HERE for additional informations.
Borrowing a phrase from a friend's blog...
"kalau nak menurut biar berakal, kalau mengikut biar berilmu..."
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postcript:
Do not expect to achieve more than 10km/l [or less than 10liter/100km] when driving a car like 308turbo in the cities like KL & PJ - otherwise your are buying a wrong car for the right purpose! Better get a car equivalent to H.City for that matter.
-author-
Uncle D, will try the RON95 on my GT and let you know hows the performance... BTW, I agree that the FC is the least of my worries... the petrol price is already as cheap as it is...
Alan,
Our turbo engines can run on RON95. Yes, we are 'told' to use AT LEAST RON95. Unfortunately RON 95 will only available in a few months time. For time being we can pump in RON97.
I think it is a waste of money to use V-power, unless for traveling up and down PLUS at very high speed [exceeding 200kph or around that la...]
Nice blog uncle D! Thansk for the cash saving tip. Was planning to only run Vpower on my 407 but now I see the light. will run some test to compare the FC between Ron 97 and Vpower. Cheers again...
Interesting bit on the air filter. However IMHO believe it does contribute to better FC since I used one before. Also those K&N drop in type of air filter just needs proper maintenance and can be reused again. A slight savings since we don't need to change it anymore during servicing.
On V-power I fully with agree that its a waste of money.
Dav, Alf
Vee-Power is most suitable for Hot-cars with very high compression ratio running constantly at high rpm. good for Street Racers or/and Spirited drivers so to speak.
Special filters probably good for n.a carburator-engines. Little or no significant result on PROGRAMMED fuel-injection supercharged [turbo and belt driven kompressor] engines I think.
Hi AHW, I'm new to the Pug community (considering owning a 308T) and chanced upon your blog somehow through the forums. Great job on all your experiments and DIY tutorials.
That said, I do want to offer some discussion on a few of your tips under the Myths section.
1) You said that wider tyres do not offer better grip than a skinny tyre, rather it's the compound. But what if I were to compare the same tyre model but with different widths? Would they both have the same grip? Which leads to my point (2);
2) You quoted F=uN. This I have to agree with you, but apart from the coefficient of friction factor, a wider tyre is also worse for grip because of N (applied weight on the tyre). You see, a wider contact patch means the same load applied to that wheel is spread over a larger area, thus reducing the weight on each point of tread in contact with the road. This calls to mind a little science lesson I learnt aeons ago that the pressure applied on a spot by the tips of a woman's high heels is greater than that of an elephant's leg! Having said that, in essence can we also say that wider tyres in fact help the car go faster due to the lesser rolling resistance?
3) On oil changes; most manufacturers err on the side of caution and suggest 5,000km, especially during the warranty period LOL. I believe this has to do with the fact that 5,000km to you, may not be equal to 5,000km to me or someone else. People who work 9-to-5 in the city spend more time in traffic crawls than on open roads. On the contrary, for people like me who don't need to report to the office daily and can choose to travel during off-peak hours, my oil is still clean after 5,000km. I feel that oil change intervals should rightly be done at the owner's discretion as he/she knows how hard their cars have been driven.
4) On ATF changes; although ATF typically lasts 50-60k km, in our climate it is advisable to change earlier. Again the argument of traffic jams comes to mind. Even when a car is idling, the torque converter is still spinning and churning the ATF. Why wait for the ATF to turn acidic? If the old ATF that's being drained out still looks good, at least I'm confident that my gearbox has received the best care and will never see bad fluid.
5) On increasing the overall diameter of the stock wheels; it is generally recommended to stay within 3% of the stock diameter for various reasons. The most obvious is the speedo reading. The less obvious reason is the increased energy needed to turn not only a larger, heavier wheel but by effectively putting more weight towards the outer part of the wheel (assuming the rims are larger than stock), the engine has to overcome a higher inertial mass. A heavier wheel is also detrimental to the suspension system, where it now has to absorb more force.
Hi AHW, I'm new to the Pug community (considering owning a 308T) and chanced upon your blog somehow through the forums. Great job on all your experiments and DIY tutorials.
That said, I do want to offer some discussion on a few of your tips under the Myths section.
1) You said that wider tyres do not offer better grip than a skinny tyre, rather it's the compound. But what if I were to compare the same tyre model but with different widths? Would they both have the same grip? Which leads to my point (2);
2) You quoted F=uN. This I have to agree with you, but apart from the coefficient of friction factor, a wider tyre is also worse for grip because of N (applied weight on the tyre). You see, a wider contact patch means the same load applied to that wheel is spread over a larger area, thus reducing the weight on each point of tread in contact with the road. This calls to mind a little science lesson I learnt aeons ago that the pressure applied on a spot by the tips of a woman's high heels is greater than that of an elephant's leg! Having said that, in essence can we also say that wider tyres in fact help the car go faster due to the lesser rolling resistance?
Cheers.
Thanks for your points of discussions.
Your points #1 and #2:
As an analogy... if we go to the extreme and take a look at spikes on sprinter or golf shoes... or claws on felid feet. Are they not designed for better grip?
On car tyres there are constraints though. There must be an optimum contact patch size [length and width], tyre pressure, rubber compound, thread/bead design, etc... but I think most ppl choose tyres for the 'muscular' look rather than for the purpose.
BTW what happened to the rest of your comments? disappeared?
Anyway I can recall...
Comment #3 & #4 - Regarding 'Engine oil and ATF change interval'. U r right in a way and I can not disagree.
What normally recommended by the car engine manufacturers is based on average usage within 'safety' margin.
Engine oil change interval among others depends on operating time, rpm, load, engine_temperature, ambient/atmospheric conditions etc...
It would be useful if car manufacturers come up with the algorithms to process those inputs and decide the 'exact' time for the oil/ATF change.. and other services. Some cars like BMW already got but not quite yet...
Comment # 5
Regarding increasing the diameter of the stock wheels...
Can use larger wheel but tyre profile or aspect ratio must be reduced accordingly to maintain overall tyre circumference within 2% margin. 3% is too much.
Regarding speedo reading, I would say lots of speedometer out there read higher than the actual speed. Increasing wheel size by a notch w/o reducing aspect ratio probably will make speedometer read accurately too...
Hi AHW, yes somehow my other comments disappeared; when I first posted them an error popped up saying it was too long, however the comments did appear last night (this morning).
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