The oil filter cartridge housing can be removed with 27mm socket wrench. Oil drain plug needs 8mm allen key (not shown).
Now the lion roars differently...
CSC3 tyre condition after being abused for 40,000km vs new
As shown in the above table, about 2/3 of the monthly average expenses goes to installments and downpayments. Only 1/3 of the expenses used for running and maintaining the car. If you just have only one car, you would have traveled more and there will be higher average monthly expenses needed.
Before getting the car back on road, first thing to do is to renew insurance & road tax and do some minor maintenance.
.... yes indeed, I need 19mm bolt caps. Now my 308 uses 19mm instead of std 17mm wheel bolts.
I did inspect undercarriage as well....
... and found no traces of oil leak anywhere of any kind even after almost two years of abuse. To date AHW308 is free from infamous oil leak.
So far already three counts of oil change, every time filled up 4.25 liter after draining and the filter cart replaced- it is not true filling more than 3.7 liter will make oil seeps out. Probably the first batch [CBU species] which needs 4.25 liter of oil is different from the later batches...
Original CSC3 225/45 R17 tyre condition after 35,000km... makan evenly and never need balancing since day 1. Probably will last beyond 40,000km!
"Will be back....!"
[*Mobil-1 Gold 0w-40 membuat enjin terasa lebih mantap dan solid pada red-line berbanding pelincir 0w-30, 5w-30 dan 10w-30]
The 1.5yrs old car. Just done 30,000km.
Most of the time the problem appears at unpredictable intervals. Some incidences were on a daily basis, sometimes may have weeks of trouble free operation between incidents.
Cause
Being a technical person I usually ask for the explanation. I was told the pressure regulation fault code was triggered when the ECU senses a difference between the calculated pressure and the actual line pressure in the transmission. The pressure difference was caused by internal leakage. Internal leaks could be caused by mechanical wear, a leak between valve body and transmission casing, incorrect adjustment of the manual valve index spring.
The most common cause however is the pressure regulation solenoid valve.
Diagnosis
The diagnosis was not straightforward, several operations were required to eliminate possibilities.
The transmission didn't need to be overhauled or replaced because the fluid sample was normal like fresh ATF, i.e transparent. Fluid drained from a transmission that has been in operation for some time is usually dark in colour and lacks transparency, this is acceptable and not necessarily an indication of an internal fault. Caution was exercised with the fluid assessment.
Note: A faulty sensor maintain constant pressure of 6,5 bars. This would also mean that the transmission would be in Limp Home Mode and that the fault is permanent. Since the problem usually was intermittent the pressure readings would check out OK most of the time. Since no other problems have been found so far, diagnose continued...
The operations outlined obove resolved the pressure regulation problem.
If the problem couldn't be resolved Valve-body probably need to be replaced. Worse case, the whole Transmission required overhaul or replacement.
The paintwork still look shiny even though it has never been polished. Only cleaned with car shampoo and applied soft liquid wax once in a while...
After cleaning it was easy to start inspecting/checking. Battery terminal voltage was measured after the engine had been left sleeping for more than one-hour to ensure it was above 12volts.
Reads 12.71 Volts. Looks OK. If it fell below 12.0 Volts while sleeping there must be some troubles with the battery itself or/and the charging system [alternator, regulator, rectifier, etc..].
Reads almost 14.1 Volts. Looks OK, but 14.2 Volts would be perfect. The voltage should be checked regularly to prevent premature death. If it does, hopefully before March 2010 or 20,000th km on the odometer for free replacement.
The sky was overcast. Expecting light showers within an hour or so. The car was then pushed into the garage at ease, no squeaking sound of trapped sand or debris between the pad and the disk, also no problem with wheel bearings. Then crawled underneath to check for traces of oil or other fluid leaks. Also perfectly clean. No leaking, no seeping at all.
Brake pads still got 10mm balance. The disks were all worn out evenly, both front disks already 0.5mm thinner on each surface though. Tyres were inspected but no damages found. Worn out evenly with approx. 80% of remaining thread depth.
Wheels were then cleaned and waxed to make them look like new again. No scratch at all hence polishing was absolutely unnecessary at then.
...and at the rear. 
The last test was 'pap smear'. To check for how effective the combustion and emission control was. The car was warmed up first. Tail pipe was cleaned from previous deposit of carbon black and then taken for a spin at normal pace. No hard acceleration. Upon returning to the porch a piece of tissue paper is rubbed on the inside surface of the tail pipe and here it is...
Very minimum carbon soot. Relatively clean backside, but a little bit smelly, ha haaa...
"The car looks and feels almost like it was 6 months ago... simply loved it, again." - uncle.D
