The biggest myth of all times is Engine/Body Grounding - even for new Peugeot 308 owners are still talking about "grounding" .
Could someone please tell me how the add-on colorful grounding wire with 12mm. sq. copper strands inside can improve grounding while there are already physically connected by massive conductor through out engine, chassis and body?The add-on grounding is simply redundant!
What the use of additional Grounding then?
Improve sparks? Not quite. Sparks carry a few milliAmps only. The high potential electrons can 'jump' across the gaps. Wire size doesn't matter. The conductance/conductivity is not an issue. In fact the HT lead insulator resistivity is MORE important than the x-section area through which the electrons flow - to prevent sparking occur other than at the spark-plug gaps.BTW do you all aware how many amperes the current flow to the starter windings to start the engine? Now compare between the summation of all current used to run the other electrical system in the car and the current drawn from the battery during starting.
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Rally cars have heavy gauge grounding wires - the only reason for rally/racing cars having them is redundancy.
Vibration is the worst enemy in rally/racing car electrical systems - for those who have raced before understand what I mean.
Imagine how much vibration a rally/racing car endures...if one or more grounds vibrate loose.
As for a road car...as long as it has a good solid ground it's not losing anything. Such a kit will probably help on a car that's grounded improperly but I doubt it will do anything on a properly wired one.
Yes, do not waste money.
Great write up!
Just wondering, how about those ICE modders?
I read they always talk about the thickness and quality of the grounding and stuffs.
Andy,
Are u referring to this so called resistor chip/mod that tells your ecu that you are running ICE cold and is supposed to add between 10 and 20 hp?
I'm curious too. I also want to find out this really work and is it worth getting?
Let us become the MYTH BUSTERS... ha haaaa... now both of us have around 140hp na and turbo respectively. amacam? If can boost up horses to 150 good enough already.
whoops, I meant those In Car Entertainment (ICE), those sound system which they want to reduce interference, etc.
They usually talk about the high quality cables for connection, and also touch on grounding issues.
But what is that ICE cold thing? Did you mean those superchip/modchip/piggybacks?
Intermilan has the Dastek unichip, its very expensive... hehe...
The basic principle of ICE-mod is to "tell" the ECU that the engine is running ice-cold hence rich air fuel mixture at normal operating temperature [but there is somethin' more than that - may be trade secret] believed to add up to 10% more horses. However the fuel consumption is increased and lots of black soot will be deposited at the tail pipe. Not sure yet whether it is another myth or not...
Regarding the ICE modders thingy related to the sound system - one need to test own hearing frequency response first. Each and everyone of us has deficiency in hearing - e.g some people can not hear low bass below 100hz while others are not sensitive to high pitch more than 10kHz. I'm hyper sensitive to BASS, but cannot hear hi-pitched sound from tweeter. Hence the inteference will be naturally supressed.
So it is a waste of money spending on those if one cannot enjoy the entire frequency spectrum, especially aging ppl like me, ha haaaa....
BTW dogs are sensitive to super high-pitch sounds that human beeing can't hear. Other animals/insects are sensitive to super low frequency that can sense earthquake earlier than any device invented... sorry off topic already.
Andy,
u can find ICE-mod performance superchip at the following:
http://www.solware.co.uk/car-performance-chips/
or go directly here:
http://www.solware.co.uk/car-performance-chips/car--mod-chip.shtml
Very true about the sound system, most important is to be able to enjoy and satisfy oneself and the price is worth.
And thanks for the information on the superchip/modchip~
I've seen Dyno results from 206GTi members from Australia where they did Dyno test for Standard VS Superchips mapping; He also did with different filters.
The result with original filter has improvements of hp (around 7hp), while torque only increased about 1 lbft.
With K&N replacement filters the torque increased more (around 10 lbft with supechips and about 2 lbft with Standard mapping).
One thing tough, the RPM for max hp and torque also changes.
IMHO it's only useful on old rusty cars with bad earthing. These earthing things MAY help. On old Minis my father would recommend running a cable to the front and hooking up to the headlight grounds. Battery was in trunk. After doing this the headlights were brighter. On new cars any improvement is suspect. Perception is not a good way to gauge these add-ons.
BikerVoodoo,
Correct.
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